The Zaroot is Nissan's way of showing how sporty SUV's could look in the future. Combining traditional SUV value, off-road ability and futuristic sporty styling definitely makes an aggressive visual statement.
The concept car is indeed a promise of things to come for Nissan. It also could spawn a unibody, compact SUV for the U.S. market to compete with the Honda CR-V and the Toyota RAV4. The Zaroot definitely makes an aggressive visual statement, with substantial wheel arches, the now-familiar Nissan truck front end styling, and huge gullwing doors that stretch from the A-pillar to the C-pillar. There is no B pillar.
The pentagonal doors define the look of the Zaroot with its front and rear graphic treatment adding a futuristic twist. A bluff nose that ensures minimum front overhangs and double strut grille and arch graphic roof line makes the Zaroot stand out even more.
Dramatic Gullwing doors provide the focal point of the Zaroot design lending a unique shape and making the car a head turner especially when both doors are open. The roof-mounted spotlights have been neatly integrated into the roof bars. The advantage of the gull wing aside from its impressive looks is the ease of access to the cabin they allow, both for passengers and luggage: with the rear seats folded, an awkwardly-shaped load such as a bicycle can be easily loaded into the vehicle with ease. Nissan designed the Gullwing doors by creating a shortened door that is only a little deeper than the side window so it can be easily opened especially in tight parking areas.. The trailing edge of the door finishes in line with the seat cushion, where it meets an extended sill. To maintain the ease of ingress and egress to and from the cabin, the sill automatically drops away underneath the vehicle whenever the door is opened.
Nissan has ensured Zaroot is good to drive on-road, too, with strong performance, excellent road-holding and handling and high levels of comfort.
If you want to maintain the superior performance of your Nissan, then Partstrain is the store for you. Partstrain is the leading supplier of Nissan discount- priced finest quality Nissan Auto Parts. For your performance demands, Partstrain offers electrical parts, exhaust, catalytic converters, grille, head panel, engine parts, spoiler, radiator support, rear body panel, turn signal lights and a whole lot more.
A tremendous line of discount Nissan auto parts guaranteed to be the best of its kind is found at http://www.partstrain.com/ShopByVehicle/NISSAN . The services of its highly trained and friendly staff do not end when parts are delivered at your doorstep, call them and receive valuable technical support.
About the Author
Jenny McLane is a 36 year old native of Iowa and has a knack for research on cars and anything and everything about it. She works full time as a Market Analyst for one of the leading car parts suppliers in the country today.
Written by: Jenny McLane
Monday, December 31, 2007
Sunday, December 16, 2007
Can you really get a free car?
Can you really get a free car?
You may have heard rumours that you can get a free car. Well, this is not exactly true.
As the old adage goes, you can't get something for nothing and this holds true in this case.
You can however ALMOST get a free car.
Why do I say almost?
Because you are going to put your car in a job!
That's right!
Advertising companies are willing to employ your car to display logos, signs and almost any sort of fluffy toy that suits their marketing campaign.
You see, advertising space has become very crowded and advertisers in their wisdom have worked out that people actually pay attention when they are driving.
Otherwise they will crash. Now that's not rocket science is it?
Well, if you know anything about advertising you will realise that the first step of the Ultimate Advertising Mantra is.
ATTENTION.
And so we have the perfect advertising medium.
So yes it's true, they will pay you and in some cases you can actually cover your loan repayments, which means in effect.
You are getting a free car.
For even more fantastic, fresh and dynamite car tips grab a free copy of my ebook and send it to your friends or give it away from your website.
About the Author
Graeme J. Sprigge is the author of 28 Dynamite Money-Making & Money-Saving Cartips - a free ebook which explores every nook of money saving and some money making ideas with cars. You can get it here. http://www.90minutecarsalesman.com/28cartipsdownload.html
Copyright 2005 Graeme Sprigge
Written by: Graeme J. Sprigge
You may have heard rumours that you can get a free car. Well, this is not exactly true.
As the old adage goes, you can't get something for nothing and this holds true in this case.
You can however ALMOST get a free car.
Why do I say almost?
Because you are going to put your car in a job!
That's right!
Advertising companies are willing to employ your car to display logos, signs and almost any sort of fluffy toy that suits their marketing campaign.
You see, advertising space has become very crowded and advertisers in their wisdom have worked out that people actually pay attention when they are driving.
Otherwise they will crash. Now that's not rocket science is it?
Well, if you know anything about advertising you will realise that the first step of the Ultimate Advertising Mantra is.
ATTENTION.
And so we have the perfect advertising medium.
So yes it's true, they will pay you and in some cases you can actually cover your loan repayments, which means in effect.
You are getting a free car.
For even more fantastic, fresh and dynamite car tips grab a free copy of my ebook and send it to your friends or give it away from your website.
About the Author
Graeme J. Sprigge is the author of 28 Dynamite Money-Making & Money-Saving Cartips - a free ebook which explores every nook of money saving and some money making ideas with cars. You can get it here. http://www.90minutecarsalesman.com/28cartipsdownload.html
Copyright 2005 Graeme Sprigge
Written by: Graeme J. Sprigge
Saturday, December 8, 2007
An Overview on How to install Neon under car lights
Are you a bit confused about how to install Neon under car lights on your vehicle? What about the wiring, do you know colors are important when wiring up neon car lights? Well if not we'll show you how to install the under car lights onto your vehicle in the fastest and most easiest way.
First of all, before doing *any* electrical work on your vehicle, always disconnect the battery before starting. Do this by disconnecting the negative battery cable.
Performing projects on cars, like installing Neon under car lights, involves drilling holes into the body of a vehicle, its very important to first check the locations where you're going to mount the under car lights, to be certain you won't pierce or damage any crucial parts such as brake lines, fuel lines and electrical lines, etc.
While the vehicle is raised up on a lift or jack determine the best location for the neon tubes. Make sure they are away from all fuel lines, exhaust systems, areas of extreme heat, moving parts, and areas where a lift jack is used to raise the vehicle.
The easiest way to mount the under car neon lights is to start the screws in the brackets first,(supplied in the kit) then holding the bracket in place, insert and tighten the screws into the holes. Make sure that the wires coming from the *side* neon tubes are facing the front of the vehicle. It's best to tighten the screws just enough to hold the bracket in place, then go back after once you almost finished and individually tighten each one until it seats firmly.
Next you'll need to locate a spot to mount the neon light kit transformer. The preferred location will be somewhere near the battery in the engine compartment and you'll need to drill mounting holes for attaching the transformer.
The power wire on the transformer can be connected directly to the Positive side of the car battery or to any 12V power wire under the dashboard. There will also be an "Earth wire" or Negative ground wire for the neon under car lights that will need to be securely screwed to the chassis of the vehicle, or to any "Earth wire" to complete the power circuit.
The on-off switch should be mounted in a convenient location on the dash and within your reach. Wiring for the switch can be run through a grommet in the firewall, into the engine compartment where it can be connected to the battery. The switch and fuse, that will be included in your neon under car lights kit, should be connected between the transformer and the power supply.
All you need to do now is to plug all the neon tubes into the transformer and complete any additional wiring according to your kit instructions and then you'll be all set to show em off!
Please see our "More-In-depth" and step-by-step picture illustrated instructions on How to install Neon under car lights onto your vehicle.
About the author:
Antonio Gabellone is the Owner/Author of All-Neon-Car-Lights.com - The Site is a great resource aimed at Neon Car Lights from PlasmaGlow with "life-time Warranties". Copyright© All-Neon-Car-Lights.com 2005-2007 - Permission is granted to reprint this article provided the webmaster supplies a *LIVE* link to the authors website.
Written by: Antonio Gabellone
First of all, before doing *any* electrical work on your vehicle, always disconnect the battery before starting. Do this by disconnecting the negative battery cable.
Performing projects on cars, like installing Neon under car lights, involves drilling holes into the body of a vehicle, its very important to first check the locations where you're going to mount the under car lights, to be certain you won't pierce or damage any crucial parts such as brake lines, fuel lines and electrical lines, etc.
While the vehicle is raised up on a lift or jack determine the best location for the neon tubes. Make sure they are away from all fuel lines, exhaust systems, areas of extreme heat, moving parts, and areas where a lift jack is used to raise the vehicle.
The easiest way to mount the under car neon lights is to start the screws in the brackets first,(supplied in the kit) then holding the bracket in place, insert and tighten the screws into the holes. Make sure that the wires coming from the *side* neon tubes are facing the front of the vehicle. It's best to tighten the screws just enough to hold the bracket in place, then go back after once you almost finished and individually tighten each one until it seats firmly.
Next you'll need to locate a spot to mount the neon light kit transformer. The preferred location will be somewhere near the battery in the engine compartment and you'll need to drill mounting holes for attaching the transformer.
The power wire on the transformer can be connected directly to the Positive side of the car battery or to any 12V power wire under the dashboard. There will also be an "Earth wire" or Negative ground wire for the neon under car lights that will need to be securely screwed to the chassis of the vehicle, or to any "Earth wire" to complete the power circuit.
The on-off switch should be mounted in a convenient location on the dash and within your reach. Wiring for the switch can be run through a grommet in the firewall, into the engine compartment where it can be connected to the battery. The switch and fuse, that will be included in your neon under car lights kit, should be connected between the transformer and the power supply.
All you need to do now is to plug all the neon tubes into the transformer and complete any additional wiring according to your kit instructions and then you'll be all set to show em off!
Please see our "More-In-depth" and step-by-step picture illustrated instructions on How to install Neon under car lights onto your vehicle.
About the author:
Antonio Gabellone is the Owner/Author of All-Neon-Car-Lights.com - The Site is a great resource aimed at Neon Car Lights from PlasmaGlow with "life-time Warranties". Copyright© All-Neon-Car-Lights.com 2005-2007 - Permission is granted to reprint this article provided the webmaster supplies a *LIVE* link to the authors website.
Written by: Antonio Gabellone
The Exhausting World of Whole House and Attic Ventilation Fans
A well-designed home has an attic ventilation system that requires no homeowner action whatsoever. Not living in a perfect world, most of us should examine our attic ventilation needs and the deficiencies in our home's design. There are many things that can be done to improve attic ventilation... and many problems that can occur if you ignore it!
Some ventilation solutions require a "powered assist". ATTIC VENTILATION FANS are designed to remove the heated air from the attic only, lowering attic temperatures and thus reducing the temperature of the rooms below. Sometimes they work wonderfully... sometimes not.
The second type of attic fan... the WHOLE HOUSE ATTIC EXHAUST FAN... is designed to draw a large volume of hot air out of your living space, replacing it with cooler outside air.... assuming the outside air is cooler! Though these may assist your attic ventilation strategies, whole house fans are primarily designed to increase your own comfort. Ahhh... a worthwhile goal!!
These articles should help you make some decisions as to whether you need to improve your attic ventilation, how far you should go, and where you could go wrong. Enjoy!
Keep Heat Under Control With Proper Attic Ventilation
Fine, Mr. Attic. Breathe in deeply... breathe out. Now, cough...
Since the energy crisis of the '70's, the climate of our attics has taken on more importance as we have insulated, weather-stripped and sealed our homes into virtual mausoleums. The idea of actually allowing a part of our home to be cold... and to do it intentionally... can give one the chills! It seems a contradiction to all the brainwashing we have received regarding the absolute need for an energy efficient home. But your attic is unlike other areas of your home, performs different functions and, to do its job, must be allowed to... breathe!!
Your attic is your friend... understand it, respect it, appreciate it and care for it!
Think of your attic as a buffer zone. Outside in the "real world" meet Mother Nature in all her glory, with temperature swings and moody weather. Inside your home, you have relatively constant temperature and humidity hopefully matching the health needs of the folks inside. The attic allows for a transition between the wild and the wonderful through the cooperation of your roof, insulation, vapor barriers and ventilation.
The attic roof, of course, keeps rain and melting snow from ruining your Persian carpets.
Insulation in the attic slows down the movement of heat up from your living space, trying its darndest to keep the inside of your home warm or cool regardless of the attic temperature.
Vapor barriers in the attic keep moisture rising from your living space away from the insulation. They are needed because damp insulation loses much of its value. Vapor barriers can take the form of plastic sheets installed on the attic floor (under the insulation), a built-in paper or aluminum foil facing on the insulation itself (always installed towards the living space), or in the form of special vapor barrier paints (See article on insulation for more information).
Sufficient ventilation helps to keep attic temperature and moisture at their optimum levels for the season. In winter, the perfect attic temperature is the outside temperature... cold and dry. In summer, the ideal is to have lots of air movement so the attic is as cool as possible... without adding refrigeration!
Proper attic ventilation has year-round benefits...
The obvious benefit of increased ventilation in the warmer months is a lower attic temperature, which can decrease cooling costs in the home. This is true regardless of how much insulation there is in the attic. In fact, attic insulation can actually cause increases in temperature in the home as the insulation holds the heat long after the sun is gone, continuing to transfer it slowly through the ceilings into your living space. Though we think of attic insulation as a barrier to the movement of heat, the oppressive heat of an underventilated attic can make your insulation a "fair weather" friend.
In the warmer months, a not-so-obvious effect of lower attic temperatures is increased roof shingle life. Though asphalt shingles are designed to take the abuse of the sun for many years, they are subjected to greater temperatures when the roof decking is allowed to overheat... which is just what happens in an underventilated attic.
In the cooler months, moisture is the most serious concern. Even with the use of vapor barriers to keep moisture from entering the attic, there are air leaks around ceiling light fixtures, bathroom exhaust fans, access panels and fold-down attic stairways that allow unwanted moisture into the attic. Just going into the attic to bring down that old Monopoly game can increase the moisture level in the attic a hundred fold.
Moisture condensing on the framing members and the inside of the roof deck can lead to the growth of mold, mildew and rot in the roof deck and framing. And for those of you who use the attic area for storage, watch those roofing nails and any metal reinforcements! Have you ever noticed that items in the attic seem to have evidence of slight water drips, but there doesn't seem to be a roof leak? Glance at the business end of the roof nails sticking through the roof deck. Are they rusty... or is the wood around them stained? If so, you almost definitely have an attic moisture problem. Moisture from the living area is entering the attic and freezing on the nails. When the attic warms slightly, the ice melts and drips onto your stuff. Mystery solved!
As if that wasn't enough, relative warm and cold spots on the inside of the roof deck can lead to the nightmare of ice dams and their associated roof leaks when the roof is snow-covered (see article on ice dams for more information).
Understanding non-mechanical attic venting...
One common type of vent, especially in homes built prior to 1980, is the gable vent, which is a louvered and screened vent located at or near the peak in the sidewall of the attic. Gable vents come in different sizes, materials, and shapes... triangular, rectangular, wood, plastic or metal. They offer a reasonable amount of ventilation in the upper-most areas of the attic but they do not produce uniform temperatures throughout the attic, leading to the formation of "hot spots" of overheated motionless air.
By far the best non-mechanical venting system is the combination of soffit vents and ridge vents. This type of ventilation requires a specific roof design with an overhanging area at the lower edge of the roof called a soffit. Vents are installed into the underside of the soffit overhang to allow air to move into the attic. The graphic shows a continuous soffit vent which runs the entire length of the soffit.
To complement the soffit vents, another vent is installed at the peak of the roof, called a ridge vent. This is a screened replacement for the uppermost shingles bridging the peak of the roof, allowing air to flow in or out of the attic along the entire peak. The system is devilishly simple in function yet effective... warm air in the attic rises and exits through the ridge vents to be replaced by cooler air entering the soffit vents. Because the path of the cool air is along the underside of the roof deck, it provides uniform air movement and the best possible ventilating action.
Living in an imperfectly vented world...
Oh if only the world was perfect... but it's not. And if only all the builders took attic ventilation seriously years ago. Dream on! They didn't. As usual, we all have to make compromises and "make do" with what we have. Here are a few suggestions to help you with some of these imperfect situations...
If your home has gable vents but unvented soffits, the installation of soffit venting will be a great improvement over gable vents alone. Though you might be able to install continuous soffit vents, it is much easier for the homeowner to install circular aluminum vents. Just bore the right size hole and press them into place! They are available in sizes from 2" up to over 16". Just make sure there is no insulation blocking the inside opening to the soffit, or the vents will be useless. By the way, the addition of a ridge vent would make this retrofitting perfect (see below).Vent louver pictured is manufactured by Seiho International.
Installation of a vent or vents in the lower sidewall of the attic can also increase the air flow to a gable or ridge vent. Don't use a gable-type vent in this low location... it's not too aesthetically pleasing. A few circular aluminum vents painted to match the house are much less obvious.
Installation of a ridge vent in a home with gable vents will dramatically increase the ventilation of the attic, though not as much as if soffit vents were installed. However, if your moisture problem is not extreme, it may give you just enough ventilation to avoid more drastic measures, such as a powered ventilator, discussed in the next section.
Unfortunately, installation of soffits onto an existing house is not a small task. If you just simply must have them, I suggest pricing out a new house first!
Do not allow your attic insulation to come in contact with any part of the roof, or to cover your soffits.
If you use your attic for storage, be sure to leave space around your vents for air movement.
Mechanical attic venting...
If you have noticed any of the symptoms of inadequate ventilation as mentioned earlier and cannot increase ventilation through conventional means, you may be a candidate for one of the various mechanical attic ventilators. They all increase ventilation through the use of fans or turbines which forcefully remove air from the attic. As you will see, they work in concert with other vents to lower attic temperatures in the summer and also remove moisture in the winter.
Gable Mounted Ventilators...
Gable mounted ventilators are the simplest type to install, and can really increase the air flow through the attic. They are mounted inside of an existing gable vent, and in many cases require no carpentry at all to install. A typical unit can ventilate over 2000 square feet of attic space. You will need electrical skills, however, since these are powered units.
There is a second type of gable mounted ventilator that is mounted through the wall, with its own self-opening shutter system to prevent the entrance of bees, bats or other undesirables into your attic when not in use. These units require more advanced carpentry skills for installation but the reward is increased ventilation. Unlike the gable vent-mounted units, they do not have to blow through the gable vent's protective screening. As mentioned in the article on whole house exhaust fans, insect screening can decrease the total air flow through a vent by up to 25%!
Roof Mounted Ventilators...
Roof mounted ventilators come in two flavors... powered and unpowered. Unpowered ventilators, also called turbine attic ventilators, rotate with the slightest breeze and cause a powerful updraft in the attic to effectively pump out the heated air. Varying in size from 12" up to 24" in diameter, the largest of these turbines can move as much air (with a little assist from Mother Nature's breath) as the most powerful electric ventilators!
Avoid steel ventilators... as Neil Young once sang "Rust never sleeps!" Instead insist on rust-proof aluminum or plastic ventilators. The SupaVent unit shown at the right, for example, is made from ABS plastic and is virtually indestructible!
Supavent Turbine Ventilator
Graphic courtesy of
Edmonds Industries Australia
Powered roof mounted ventilators are the most effective ventilators available able to ventilate over 2500 square feet of attic floor space. They share the same two advantages of the turbine ventilators... the high mounting position allows them to most effectively suck out the heated air, and you have greater flexibility in choosing the mounting position... especially useful if your attic is "complicated" due to architectural design!
Graphic courtesy
Sun Tunnel Skylights
If your roof faces the right way... south-facing roofs are the best... you might be able to benefit from the energy saving features of a solar powered attic exhaust fan. Though not as powerful as the largest electric ventilators, solar units offer the advantages of zero energy cost during use.
They are the most effective when needed the most since their fans increase in power and speed as the intensity of the sunlight increases. And even if you are "electrically challenged", there's no problem 'cause there's no wiring!
Pictured above is the
Fan-Attic
Solar Ventilator.
For more information visit their website at http://www.fan-attic.com
Whole house exhaust fans...
If you already have a whole house exhaust fan, you already have some of the benefits of attic ventilation fans. Each time you use your exhaust fan the attic air is quickly cooled. Initially there will be "hot spots" since the exhausted air will be directed towards the existing vents, but the sheer volume of the exhausted air will soon cool the entire attic.
Of course, most of us will not use our whole house fans during the day since it would be silly to draw heated air into your home just to cool the attic! If your existing attic ventilation system is doing its job, a whole house exhaust fan will only add to the benefits of a cooler attic in the evenings.
See the article on whole house exhaust fans for more information!
Watch out for unintended consequences!
Murphy's law rears its head in the strangest places... your attic, for instance. Who would think that that beautiful powered ventilator might do absolutely nothing to cool your attic? If you have lots of ventilation already, adding a powered ventilator may be a waste of time and money.
This is especially true if you have a soffit-ridge vent system, the most efficient natural ventilation system. Face it... ventilators are stupid machines! They will draw air from wherever they can with the least effort. This means that a ventilator will draw air from ridge vents, gable vents or soffit vents. Fine. But if the fan draws much of its air from a nearby gable or ridge vent, there is no benefit to anyone except the electric company! So placement of the ventilator is essential... as well as careful consideration of whether or not it is a wise investment in the first place.
If you have installed an unpowered roof turbine vent, you have a year-round ventilation increase (unless the two feet of snow on the roof freezes it solid). Unfortunately, powered systems use heat sensors to control their operation. They only run when the attic reaches a certain temperature... typically ranging from as low as 70 degrees F to as high as 140 degrees F. This is great for the summer, but what about the winter? As you have learned, the moisture that accumulates in a poorly ventilated attic can be as destructive as the summer heat. Unfortunately, a thermostat is not a viable solution for wintertime ventilation. A suggestion... install a timer that will automatically turn on the ventilator for a certain number of hours each day to give you a true four-season ventilation boost!
Safety considerations with powered ventilators...
It is a wise idea to have a master cutoff switch for your attic ventilator in your living space. This allows you do perform maintenance safely as well as being able to stop the air flow if you need to go into the attic. No need to pull cooler house air into the attic, right?
All attic ventilators should be installed with a fusible link, a type of fuse that melts in the presence of high heat, disconnecting the power. It is mounted near the fan in the attic, automatically turning off the fan in the event of fire... a valuable safety feature!
Do-It Yourself installations...
Both powered and unpowered ventilators come with detailed installation instructions, and should be within the abilities of even the novice do-it-yourselfer. Getting electrical power safely to the ventilator (if needed) requires electrical knowledge concerning proper wiring practice and local code requirements.
Some ventilation solutions require a "powered assist". ATTIC VENTILATION FANS are designed to remove the heated air from the attic only, lowering attic temperatures and thus reducing the temperature of the rooms below. Sometimes they work wonderfully... sometimes not.
The second type of attic fan... the WHOLE HOUSE ATTIC EXHAUST FAN... is designed to draw a large volume of hot air out of your living space, replacing it with cooler outside air.... assuming the outside air is cooler! Though these may assist your attic ventilation strategies, whole house fans are primarily designed to increase your own comfort. Ahhh... a worthwhile goal!!
These articles should help you make some decisions as to whether you need to improve your attic ventilation, how far you should go, and where you could go wrong. Enjoy!
Keep Heat Under Control With Proper Attic Ventilation
Fine, Mr. Attic. Breathe in deeply... breathe out. Now, cough...
Since the energy crisis of the '70's, the climate of our attics has taken on more importance as we have insulated, weather-stripped and sealed our homes into virtual mausoleums. The idea of actually allowing a part of our home to be cold... and to do it intentionally... can give one the chills! It seems a contradiction to all the brainwashing we have received regarding the absolute need for an energy efficient home. But your attic is unlike other areas of your home, performs different functions and, to do its job, must be allowed to... breathe!!
Your attic is your friend... understand it, respect it, appreciate it and care for it!
Think of your attic as a buffer zone. Outside in the "real world" meet Mother Nature in all her glory, with temperature swings and moody weather. Inside your home, you have relatively constant temperature and humidity hopefully matching the health needs of the folks inside. The attic allows for a transition between the wild and the wonderful through the cooperation of your roof, insulation, vapor barriers and ventilation.
The attic roof, of course, keeps rain and melting snow from ruining your Persian carpets.
Insulation in the attic slows down the movement of heat up from your living space, trying its darndest to keep the inside of your home warm or cool regardless of the attic temperature.
Vapor barriers in the attic keep moisture rising from your living space away from the insulation. They are needed because damp insulation loses much of its value. Vapor barriers can take the form of plastic sheets installed on the attic floor (under the insulation), a built-in paper or aluminum foil facing on the insulation itself (always installed towards the living space), or in the form of special vapor barrier paints (See article on insulation for more information).
Sufficient ventilation helps to keep attic temperature and moisture at their optimum levels for the season. In winter, the perfect attic temperature is the outside temperature... cold and dry. In summer, the ideal is to have lots of air movement so the attic is as cool as possible... without adding refrigeration!
Proper attic ventilation has year-round benefits...
The obvious benefit of increased ventilation in the warmer months is a lower attic temperature, which can decrease cooling costs in the home. This is true regardless of how much insulation there is in the attic. In fact, attic insulation can actually cause increases in temperature in the home as the insulation holds the heat long after the sun is gone, continuing to transfer it slowly through the ceilings into your living space. Though we think of attic insulation as a barrier to the movement of heat, the oppressive heat of an underventilated attic can make your insulation a "fair weather" friend.
In the warmer months, a not-so-obvious effect of lower attic temperatures is increased roof shingle life. Though asphalt shingles are designed to take the abuse of the sun for many years, they are subjected to greater temperatures when the roof decking is allowed to overheat... which is just what happens in an underventilated attic.
In the cooler months, moisture is the most serious concern. Even with the use of vapor barriers to keep moisture from entering the attic, there are air leaks around ceiling light fixtures, bathroom exhaust fans, access panels and fold-down attic stairways that allow unwanted moisture into the attic. Just going into the attic to bring down that old Monopoly game can increase the moisture level in the attic a hundred fold.
Moisture condensing on the framing members and the inside of the roof deck can lead to the growth of mold, mildew and rot in the roof deck and framing. And for those of you who use the attic area for storage, watch those roofing nails and any metal reinforcements! Have you ever noticed that items in the attic seem to have evidence of slight water drips, but there doesn't seem to be a roof leak? Glance at the business end of the roof nails sticking through the roof deck. Are they rusty... or is the wood around them stained? If so, you almost definitely have an attic moisture problem. Moisture from the living area is entering the attic and freezing on the nails. When the attic warms slightly, the ice melts and drips onto your stuff. Mystery solved!
As if that wasn't enough, relative warm and cold spots on the inside of the roof deck can lead to the nightmare of ice dams and their associated roof leaks when the roof is snow-covered (see article on ice dams for more information).
Understanding non-mechanical attic venting...
One common type of vent, especially in homes built prior to 1980, is the gable vent, which is a louvered and screened vent located at or near the peak in the sidewall of the attic. Gable vents come in different sizes, materials, and shapes... triangular, rectangular, wood, plastic or metal. They offer a reasonable amount of ventilation in the upper-most areas of the attic but they do not produce uniform temperatures throughout the attic, leading to the formation of "hot spots" of overheated motionless air.
By far the best non-mechanical venting system is the combination of soffit vents and ridge vents. This type of ventilation requires a specific roof design with an overhanging area at the lower edge of the roof called a soffit. Vents are installed into the underside of the soffit overhang to allow air to move into the attic. The graphic shows a continuous soffit vent which runs the entire length of the soffit.
To complement the soffit vents, another vent is installed at the peak of the roof, called a ridge vent. This is a screened replacement for the uppermost shingles bridging the peak of the roof, allowing air to flow in or out of the attic along the entire peak. The system is devilishly simple in function yet effective... warm air in the attic rises and exits through the ridge vents to be replaced by cooler air entering the soffit vents. Because the path of the cool air is along the underside of the roof deck, it provides uniform air movement and the best possible ventilating action.
Living in an imperfectly vented world...
Oh if only the world was perfect... but it's not. And if only all the builders took attic ventilation seriously years ago. Dream on! They didn't. As usual, we all have to make compromises and "make do" with what we have. Here are a few suggestions to help you with some of these imperfect situations...
If your home has gable vents but unvented soffits, the installation of soffit venting will be a great improvement over gable vents alone. Though you might be able to install continuous soffit vents, it is much easier for the homeowner to install circular aluminum vents. Just bore the right size hole and press them into place! They are available in sizes from 2" up to over 16". Just make sure there is no insulation blocking the inside opening to the soffit, or the vents will be useless. By the way, the addition of a ridge vent would make this retrofitting perfect (see below).Vent louver pictured is manufactured by Seiho International.
Installation of a vent or vents in the lower sidewall of the attic can also increase the air flow to a gable or ridge vent. Don't use a gable-type vent in this low location... it's not too aesthetically pleasing. A few circular aluminum vents painted to match the house are much less obvious.
Installation of a ridge vent in a home with gable vents will dramatically increase the ventilation of the attic, though not as much as if soffit vents were installed. However, if your moisture problem is not extreme, it may give you just enough ventilation to avoid more drastic measures, such as a powered ventilator, discussed in the next section.
Unfortunately, installation of soffits onto an existing house is not a small task. If you just simply must have them, I suggest pricing out a new house first!
Do not allow your attic insulation to come in contact with any part of the roof, or to cover your soffits.
If you use your attic for storage, be sure to leave space around your vents for air movement.
Mechanical attic venting...
If you have noticed any of the symptoms of inadequate ventilation as mentioned earlier and cannot increase ventilation through conventional means, you may be a candidate for one of the various mechanical attic ventilators. They all increase ventilation through the use of fans or turbines which forcefully remove air from the attic. As you will see, they work in concert with other vents to lower attic temperatures in the summer and also remove moisture in the winter.
Gable Mounted Ventilators...
Gable mounted ventilators are the simplest type to install, and can really increase the air flow through the attic. They are mounted inside of an existing gable vent, and in many cases require no carpentry at all to install. A typical unit can ventilate over 2000 square feet of attic space. You will need electrical skills, however, since these are powered units.
There is a second type of gable mounted ventilator that is mounted through the wall, with its own self-opening shutter system to prevent the entrance of bees, bats or other undesirables into your attic when not in use. These units require more advanced carpentry skills for installation but the reward is increased ventilation. Unlike the gable vent-mounted units, they do not have to blow through the gable vent's protective screening. As mentioned in the article on whole house exhaust fans, insect screening can decrease the total air flow through a vent by up to 25%!
Roof Mounted Ventilators...
Roof mounted ventilators come in two flavors... powered and unpowered. Unpowered ventilators, also called turbine attic ventilators, rotate with the slightest breeze and cause a powerful updraft in the attic to effectively pump out the heated air. Varying in size from 12" up to 24" in diameter, the largest of these turbines can move as much air (with a little assist from Mother Nature's breath) as the most powerful electric ventilators!
Avoid steel ventilators... as Neil Young once sang "Rust never sleeps!" Instead insist on rust-proof aluminum or plastic ventilators. The SupaVent unit shown at the right, for example, is made from ABS plastic and is virtually indestructible!
Supavent Turbine Ventilator
Graphic courtesy of
Edmonds Industries Australia
Powered roof mounted ventilators are the most effective ventilators available able to ventilate over 2500 square feet of attic floor space. They share the same two advantages of the turbine ventilators... the high mounting position allows them to most effectively suck out the heated air, and you have greater flexibility in choosing the mounting position... especially useful if your attic is "complicated" due to architectural design!
Graphic courtesy
Sun Tunnel Skylights
If your roof faces the right way... south-facing roofs are the best... you might be able to benefit from the energy saving features of a solar powered attic exhaust fan. Though not as powerful as the largest electric ventilators, solar units offer the advantages of zero energy cost during use.
They are the most effective when needed the most since their fans increase in power and speed as the intensity of the sunlight increases. And even if you are "electrically challenged", there's no problem 'cause there's no wiring!
Pictured above is the
Fan-Attic
Solar Ventilator.
For more information visit their website at http://www.fan-attic.com
Whole house exhaust fans...
If you already have a whole house exhaust fan, you already have some of the benefits of attic ventilation fans. Each time you use your exhaust fan the attic air is quickly cooled. Initially there will be "hot spots" since the exhausted air will be directed towards the existing vents, but the sheer volume of the exhausted air will soon cool the entire attic.
Of course, most of us will not use our whole house fans during the day since it would be silly to draw heated air into your home just to cool the attic! If your existing attic ventilation system is doing its job, a whole house exhaust fan will only add to the benefits of a cooler attic in the evenings.
See the article on whole house exhaust fans for more information!
Watch out for unintended consequences!
Murphy's law rears its head in the strangest places... your attic, for instance. Who would think that that beautiful powered ventilator might do absolutely nothing to cool your attic? If you have lots of ventilation already, adding a powered ventilator may be a waste of time and money.
This is especially true if you have a soffit-ridge vent system, the most efficient natural ventilation system. Face it... ventilators are stupid machines! They will draw air from wherever they can with the least effort. This means that a ventilator will draw air from ridge vents, gable vents or soffit vents. Fine. But if the fan draws much of its air from a nearby gable or ridge vent, there is no benefit to anyone except the electric company! So placement of the ventilator is essential... as well as careful consideration of whether or not it is a wise investment in the first place.
If you have installed an unpowered roof turbine vent, you have a year-round ventilation increase (unless the two feet of snow on the roof freezes it solid). Unfortunately, powered systems use heat sensors to control their operation. They only run when the attic reaches a certain temperature... typically ranging from as low as 70 degrees F to as high as 140 degrees F. This is great for the summer, but what about the winter? As you have learned, the moisture that accumulates in a poorly ventilated attic can be as destructive as the summer heat. Unfortunately, a thermostat is not a viable solution for wintertime ventilation. A suggestion... install a timer that will automatically turn on the ventilator for a certain number of hours each day to give you a true four-season ventilation boost!
Safety considerations with powered ventilators...
It is a wise idea to have a master cutoff switch for your attic ventilator in your living space. This allows you do perform maintenance safely as well as being able to stop the air flow if you need to go into the attic. No need to pull cooler house air into the attic, right?
All attic ventilators should be installed with a fusible link, a type of fuse that melts in the presence of high heat, disconnecting the power. It is mounted near the fan in the attic, automatically turning off the fan in the event of fire... a valuable safety feature!
Do-It Yourself installations...
Both powered and unpowered ventilators come with detailed installation instructions, and should be within the abilities of even the novice do-it-yourselfer. Getting electrical power safely to the ventilator (if needed) requires electrical knowledge concerning proper wiring practice and local code requirements.
Driveway Sealants - Which products are best for your asphalt driveway?
Sealcoating an asphalt driveway every three years not only will make it look better, it actually will make it last longer. Sealing shields paving from the sun’s ultraviolet rays, which can deteriorate the binder and expose the aggregate. Sealcoating also prevents water and ice from getting into the paving and causing it to crumble.
The sealcoating materials and crack-filling products available to do-it-yourselfers are not as good as those available to the trade. However, few tradespeople use the best products available, so you can often still do the job better yourself if you use the right materials — and you’ll save up to 65 percent of the cost of professional maintenance.
For most of you, choices will be limited to what’s available at your local home center or hardware store. Many larger cities have a distributor of asphalt coating products used by contractors. You may be able to purchase these professional-grade sealers and fillers, but remember that contractors buy in bulk. Most pro-grade sealers come in 55-gallon drums, not the 5-gallon buckets you’ll find at the home center. If you want to get the top-of-the-line sealer, check with your neighbors about buying enough to seal several driveways at the same time.
Coal tar vs. asphalt
Most consumer-grade driveway sealers are water-based emulsions containing water, clay fillers, latex, polymers, additives and either coal tar (a byproduct of baking coal to make coke) or asphalt (a byproduct of petroleum refining). Some so-called “asphalt” emulsions also contain some coal tar.
Although significant improvements have been made in asphalt-based sealers in recent years — the use of polymers and other additives that increase durability and resistance to oil and gas, for example — coal tar products still are most popular. According to the sealer manufacturers, coal tar sealers are more durable and much more resistant to oil or gasoline penetration than asphalt-based sealers because gasoline and oil are both solvents for asphalt but not for coal tar.
Asphalt-based sealcoating products are better for air quality because they do not emit high levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) like the petroleum-based products do. They also smell better and are less of a skin irritant.
Judging quality
Both coal tar and asphalt-based products are available in plain or filled-sealer formulas. Filled sealers contain sand or other solids that fill small cracks and holes.
According to Rick Noon, technical director at SealMaster, the more solids (asphalt, coal tar, polymers, etc.) in the formula, the better the sealer quality and the more expensive it will be. You’ll get what you pay for, and you get more solids in better or best-grade sealers.
Comparing the various additives and solids used by different manufacturers is difficult because the formulas are considered proprietary information. The general rule is that the top-quality sealers will have the greatest amount of solids left on the asphalt after the liquids evaporate and cure.
The best way to determine quality is by the length of the warranty. The best-grade sealers typically have a five to six-year warranty. The better-grade sealers are generally warranted for three to four years. Plain sealers will carry a warranty of one to three years. Each manufacturer has its specific prorated warranty, which is usually clearly displayed on the label.
A fourth category of sealer has been developed within the last five years or so. It’s best described as airport, racetrack or pavement-grade. This grade of sealer has more durable acrylic polymers and lasts longer than other formulas. Some come with a 10-year warranty.
Cost and coverage
Asphalt sealers are more expensive than coal tar sealers, primarily due to safer environmental factors (lower VOCs) and the technology (polymers, etc.) that must be added to an asphalt-based sealer to improve its otherwise poor performance.
Low-end sealers range from $5 to $8 for a 5-gallon pail that covers about 400 sq.ft. These are usually just a thin coal tar or asphalt-based, paint-like coating. Don’t expect them to last more than one season. Unsanded or “plain” sealers (the better grade) with heavier solid content range from $8 to $11; the best-grade filled sealers cost about $12 to $15. Heavy-duty or racetrack-grade sealers sell for around $20 for a 5-gallon bucket.Coverage varies between grades. A 5-gallon bucket of low-end sealer covers around 400 sq.ft. The better and top-grade sealers typically cover 250 to 350 sq.ft., depending on the condition of the driveway.
Sealer manufacturers recommend applying sealer with a wide rubber squeegee for the most uniform coverage. Pictured at left is a combination long-handle broom/squeegee sold at most hardware stores.
Crack filler/sealers
It’s important to fill cracks and seal expansion joints between asphalt and other surfaces, such as concrete aprons or curbs, to keep water out and prevent erosion of the paving base. Filled sealcoating materials will handle cracks up to 1/8 in. wide.
Hot-applied sealers are best for filling cracks from 1/8 to 1/2 in. wide. Pli-Stix driveway crack and joint filler, made by Dalton Industries, is the only DIY hot-applied product. You press the coiled material into place and heat it with a propane torch (preferably with a flame-spreading tip) or a heat gun until it melts into the crack. Pli-Stix comes in a 1/2-in.-diameter, 30-ft. roll. It can be stretched to fit 1/4-in.-wide cracks or doubled up to fill 1-in. cracks. It also has a lifetime warranty.
Most consumer-grade crack sealers are cold-applied asphalt emulsions with varying concentrations of latex and polymers. They are available in pourable jugs for cracks up to 1/8 in. wide, caulking gun cartridges for 1/2-in.-wide cracks, or as trowelable material for wider ones.
If a manufacturer rates its crack fillers using a good-better-best scale, get the best quality product if you want it to hold up as long as the sealcoating itself.
Sealing frequency
Sealer manufacturers and asphalt contractors agree that most asphalt driveways only need to be sealed about every three years. The exception would be in extremely harsh regions, such as the South or desert areas, or when the asphalt turns gray. Graying indicates that the surface is oxidizing and loosing the binder that holds the aggregate in the asphalt.
According to sealer manufacturers and engineers at the Asphalt Institute, most driveways do not need filled sealer until they have begun to develop fine cracks. This generally happens after several years. Let new asphalt cure for about a year before sealing, and then use just a plain sealer.
If you do like to seal every year to keep your driveway looking new, use budget-priced, unsanded or nonfilled sealers. The drawback to sealing every year is that the sealer can build up and will eventually peel, which also leads to it being
tracked indoors. Sealer can permanently stain vinyl flooring even if you remove it promptly. While some brands boast special ingredients to prevent tracking, proper application and curing are key to avoiding problems.
Finally, it’s best to repair cracks and holes in the fall and let them cure over the winter. Then, come spring, hose off the driveway thoroughly and apply single coat of sealer. One thin coat of sealer, regardless of the grade, will give you the best results. Multiple coats do not protect any better and actually will cause problems by cracking and peeling.
Patching and leveling
Cut out potholes and badly damaged areas to the base material and patch them with packaged asphalt mix or, at a somewhat higher cost, special pothole patching material. The specialty material typically is more flexible and easier to use. The patches even work in wet conditions and can be driven on immediately after installation.
The best repair for really "alligatored" paving is removal and patching. But Gator-Patch by Maintenance Inc. and Gator Pave by SealMaster can stabilize and level badly cracked asphalt without removing it. You apply them like a filled sealer using a pole-mounted squeegee.
Wheel depressions from parked vehicles are nuisances because they collect water. To fill them, use a series of 1/4-in.thick coats of patching material that’s intended for repairing alligatored pavement, or choose a preblended patching material recommended for thin-section repairs.
You’ll mix the latter with water and spread it from a feathered edge to up to 1 in. thick in 1/4-in. layers.
by Roy Barnhart
The sealcoating materials and crack-filling products available to do-it-yourselfers are not as good as those available to the trade. However, few tradespeople use the best products available, so you can often still do the job better yourself if you use the right materials — and you’ll save up to 65 percent of the cost of professional maintenance.
For most of you, choices will be limited to what’s available at your local home center or hardware store. Many larger cities have a distributor of asphalt coating products used by contractors. You may be able to purchase these professional-grade sealers and fillers, but remember that contractors buy in bulk. Most pro-grade sealers come in 55-gallon drums, not the 5-gallon buckets you’ll find at the home center. If you want to get the top-of-the-line sealer, check with your neighbors about buying enough to seal several driveways at the same time.
Coal tar vs. asphalt
Most consumer-grade driveway sealers are water-based emulsions containing water, clay fillers, latex, polymers, additives and either coal tar (a byproduct of baking coal to make coke) or asphalt (a byproduct of petroleum refining). Some so-called “asphalt” emulsions also contain some coal tar.
Although significant improvements have been made in asphalt-based sealers in recent years — the use of polymers and other additives that increase durability and resistance to oil and gas, for example — coal tar products still are most popular. According to the sealer manufacturers, coal tar sealers are more durable and much more resistant to oil or gasoline penetration than asphalt-based sealers because gasoline and oil are both solvents for asphalt but not for coal tar.
Asphalt-based sealcoating products are better for air quality because they do not emit high levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) like the petroleum-based products do. They also smell better and are less of a skin irritant.
Judging quality
Both coal tar and asphalt-based products are available in plain or filled-sealer formulas. Filled sealers contain sand or other solids that fill small cracks and holes.
According to Rick Noon, technical director at SealMaster, the more solids (asphalt, coal tar, polymers, etc.) in the formula, the better the sealer quality and the more expensive it will be. You’ll get what you pay for, and you get more solids in better or best-grade sealers.
Comparing the various additives and solids used by different manufacturers is difficult because the formulas are considered proprietary information. The general rule is that the top-quality sealers will have the greatest amount of solids left on the asphalt after the liquids evaporate and cure.
The best way to determine quality is by the length of the warranty. The best-grade sealers typically have a five to six-year warranty. The better-grade sealers are generally warranted for three to four years. Plain sealers will carry a warranty of one to three years. Each manufacturer has its specific prorated warranty, which is usually clearly displayed on the label.
A fourth category of sealer has been developed within the last five years or so. It’s best described as airport, racetrack or pavement-grade. This grade of sealer has more durable acrylic polymers and lasts longer than other formulas. Some come with a 10-year warranty.
Cost and coverage
Asphalt sealers are more expensive than coal tar sealers, primarily due to safer environmental factors (lower VOCs) and the technology (polymers, etc.) that must be added to an asphalt-based sealer to improve its otherwise poor performance.
Low-end sealers range from $5 to $8 for a 5-gallon pail that covers about 400 sq.ft. These are usually just a thin coal tar or asphalt-based, paint-like coating. Don’t expect them to last more than one season. Unsanded or “plain” sealers (the better grade) with heavier solid content range from $8 to $11; the best-grade filled sealers cost about $12 to $15. Heavy-duty or racetrack-grade sealers sell for around $20 for a 5-gallon bucket.Coverage varies between grades. A 5-gallon bucket of low-end sealer covers around 400 sq.ft. The better and top-grade sealers typically cover 250 to 350 sq.ft., depending on the condition of the driveway.
Sealer manufacturers recommend applying sealer with a wide rubber squeegee for the most uniform coverage. Pictured at left is a combination long-handle broom/squeegee sold at most hardware stores.
Crack filler/sealers
It’s important to fill cracks and seal expansion joints between asphalt and other surfaces, such as concrete aprons or curbs, to keep water out and prevent erosion of the paving base. Filled sealcoating materials will handle cracks up to 1/8 in. wide.
Hot-applied sealers are best for filling cracks from 1/8 to 1/2 in. wide. Pli-Stix driveway crack and joint filler, made by Dalton Industries, is the only DIY hot-applied product. You press the coiled material into place and heat it with a propane torch (preferably with a flame-spreading tip) or a heat gun until it melts into the crack. Pli-Stix comes in a 1/2-in.-diameter, 30-ft. roll. It can be stretched to fit 1/4-in.-wide cracks or doubled up to fill 1-in. cracks. It also has a lifetime warranty.
Most consumer-grade crack sealers are cold-applied asphalt emulsions with varying concentrations of latex and polymers. They are available in pourable jugs for cracks up to 1/8 in. wide, caulking gun cartridges for 1/2-in.-wide cracks, or as trowelable material for wider ones.
If a manufacturer rates its crack fillers using a good-better-best scale, get the best quality product if you want it to hold up as long as the sealcoating itself.
Sealing frequency
Sealer manufacturers and asphalt contractors agree that most asphalt driveways only need to be sealed about every three years. The exception would be in extremely harsh regions, such as the South or desert areas, or when the asphalt turns gray. Graying indicates that the surface is oxidizing and loosing the binder that holds the aggregate in the asphalt.
According to sealer manufacturers and engineers at the Asphalt Institute, most driveways do not need filled sealer until they have begun to develop fine cracks. This generally happens after several years. Let new asphalt cure for about a year before sealing, and then use just a plain sealer.
If you do like to seal every year to keep your driveway looking new, use budget-priced, unsanded or nonfilled sealers. The drawback to sealing every year is that the sealer can build up and will eventually peel, which also leads to it being
tracked indoors. Sealer can permanently stain vinyl flooring even if you remove it promptly. While some brands boast special ingredients to prevent tracking, proper application and curing are key to avoiding problems.
Finally, it’s best to repair cracks and holes in the fall and let them cure over the winter. Then, come spring, hose off the driveway thoroughly and apply single coat of sealer. One thin coat of sealer, regardless of the grade, will give you the best results. Multiple coats do not protect any better and actually will cause problems by cracking and peeling.
Patching and leveling
Cut out potholes and badly damaged areas to the base material and patch them with packaged asphalt mix or, at a somewhat higher cost, special pothole patching material. The specialty material typically is more flexible and easier to use. The patches even work in wet conditions and can be driven on immediately after installation.
The best repair for really "alligatored" paving is removal and patching. But Gator-Patch by Maintenance Inc. and Gator Pave by SealMaster can stabilize and level badly cracked asphalt without removing it. You apply them like a filled sealer using a pole-mounted squeegee.
Wheel depressions from parked vehicles are nuisances because they collect water. To fill them, use a series of 1/4-in.thick coats of patching material that’s intended for repairing alligatored pavement, or choose a preblended patching material recommended for thin-section repairs.
You’ll mix the latter with water and spread it from a feathered edge to up to 1 in. thick in 1/4-in. layers.
by Roy Barnhart
Friday, December 7, 2007
Are You In The Market For a Car Loan?
Car loans are a tempting way to purchase a new car. While they provide for easy access to a car, these loans can get quite expensive if you do not know enough about what you are getting into. Simple research will provide you with information that can save you some real expenses. Even if you are getting a used car loan or a car title loan, you need to understand what you are getting into.
Most of the time, when a buyer enters a car dealership, they already have an understanding of what they are looking for in a car and how much they can spend. But, how much research was given to the loan you may be picking up in the process? Choosing this wisely, is key to getting a good deal on a car. To find information, consider looking at different lenders and different dealerships. You do not have to get the loan through the dealership. You may be able to get one, at a lower cost, through your own bank especially if you have developed a good relationship with them.
Being aware of how much the interest rate is like being away of the gas mileage on that new car. You need to ask questions and be prepared with answers. For instance, you may be looking to purchase a used car and therefore would be looking into a used car loan. The car you choose and want to purchase will cost you 5000 paid over the next 5 years. But, what happens 3 years into the picture? The car isn't worth the amount you still owe on it because the interest rate was so high or you didn't make a down payment.
Consider the situation there. You have a loan and a run down car that may or may not have been worth it. Add into this a bad credit used car loan, with even higher interest rates and fees, and you are really hurting.
The car loan you choose should be one that reflects your credit, the car, and your understanding of the loan. Perhaps you can pay an additional amount of money a month, and cut the interest rate down over the course of the loan. Researching your options, good or bad credit, will give you more of an understanding of what's available. Simply check online (or search online) for lenders that can offer you quotes for the type of loan you are looking for. Undoubtedly, you will find many options. You will have companies competing for your business now. Choose wisely, and based on your research.
Written by Mike Yeager
Most of the time, when a buyer enters a car dealership, they already have an understanding of what they are looking for in a car and how much they can spend. But, how much research was given to the loan you may be picking up in the process? Choosing this wisely, is key to getting a good deal on a car. To find information, consider looking at different lenders and different dealerships. You do not have to get the loan through the dealership. You may be able to get one, at a lower cost, through your own bank especially if you have developed a good relationship with them.
Being aware of how much the interest rate is like being away of the gas mileage on that new car. You need to ask questions and be prepared with answers. For instance, you may be looking to purchase a used car and therefore would be looking into a used car loan. The car you choose and want to purchase will cost you 5000 paid over the next 5 years. But, what happens 3 years into the picture? The car isn't worth the amount you still owe on it because the interest rate was so high or you didn't make a down payment.
Consider the situation there. You have a loan and a run down car that may or may not have been worth it. Add into this a bad credit used car loan, with even higher interest rates and fees, and you are really hurting.
The car loan you choose should be one that reflects your credit, the car, and your understanding of the loan. Perhaps you can pay an additional amount of money a month, and cut the interest rate down over the course of the loan. Researching your options, good or bad credit, will give you more of an understanding of what's available. Simply check online (or search online) for lenders that can offer you quotes for the type of loan you are looking for. Undoubtedly, you will find many options. You will have companies competing for your business now. Choose wisely, and based on your research.
Written by Mike Yeager
A Rookies Guide to Car Rentals
Renting a car can be a lot of fun, just plain fun. Car rentals offer the renter the opportunity to drive a car, truck or SUV that they normally would not or could not buy. Renting a car is for a weekend get away, to impress someone or just to have something different to drive for a couple of days are some of the most popular reasons to visit a rental company. However, as fun as it is to rent cars, there are some not so fun things that must happen before you drive it off the lot.
1- Keep in mind that most rental companies will not rent to any driver under the age of 25. If you fall under that magic number, you more than likely will need to get an older relative or friend to sign the actual contract for you.
2- You will of course, need a valid drivers license to rent the car. If you do not have a license, they will not rent to you under any circumstances. Most companies will also require you to reserve your car with the use of a major credit card, however, you can pay in cash if you would prefer.
3- You do not need to have personal auto insurance to rent a car; they will ask you if you would like to purchase their insurance for the duration of the rental contract. If, however, you have your own insurance policy, be sure to call your agent to see if you are covered during your use of a rental car. If your personal auto policy covers you, there is no need to purchase a policy from the rental company.
4- It is wise to call several car rental companies to inquire about prices, car availability and specials. Ask about options such as upgrades, pick up and drop off services, unlimited mileage and weekend versus weekly rental prices. Many companies will also offer special deals to customers who are members of other organizations (i.e. credit unions, warehouse clubs, etc).
5- After you have called around, found the best deal and reserved your choice car; it is time to pick it up. Be sure to have all of your personal paperwork with you, including your auto policy if you will not be buying theirs. Before you sign the contract, read through it and ask any questions you may have.
Written by: John Mancini
1- Keep in mind that most rental companies will not rent to any driver under the age of 25. If you fall under that magic number, you more than likely will need to get an older relative or friend to sign the actual contract for you.
2- You will of course, need a valid drivers license to rent the car. If you do not have a license, they will not rent to you under any circumstances. Most companies will also require you to reserve your car with the use of a major credit card, however, you can pay in cash if you would prefer.
3- You do not need to have personal auto insurance to rent a car; they will ask you if you would like to purchase their insurance for the duration of the rental contract. If, however, you have your own insurance policy, be sure to call your agent to see if you are covered during your use of a rental car. If your personal auto policy covers you, there is no need to purchase a policy from the rental company.
4- It is wise to call several car rental companies to inquire about prices, car availability and specials. Ask about options such as upgrades, pick up and drop off services, unlimited mileage and weekend versus weekly rental prices. Many companies will also offer special deals to customers who are members of other organizations (i.e. credit unions, warehouse clubs, etc).
5- After you have called around, found the best deal and reserved your choice car; it is time to pick it up. Be sure to have all of your personal paperwork with you, including your auto policy if you will not be buying theirs. Before you sign the contract, read through it and ask any questions you may have.
Written by: John Mancini
A muscle car revolution
The Ford Mustang was built to do battle against the Chevrolet Corvette and the Corvair Monza Spider, the Mustang came out in 1964, at first with a straight six, but by 1965 Ford decided that the car actually needed some kind of power.
A straight six could never make the kind power Ford needed, so in 1965 the 225 HP 289 CID V8 was introduced to the Mustang, and this was a brilliant idea for Ford that skyrocketed the Mustang's sales, it was the introduction of the pony car. Basically the idea was to use a smaller mid sized car with a larger engine, thereby producing a much better power to weight ratio, and making the car more exciting to drive.
This would make the car a lot more interesting to the babe boomers, the younger people from the 1960's time era, these were the kids that were in their late teens and early 20's, this would be so appealing to the younger people of that time era, that it would set sales records that it would hold for years to come.
It would sell 500,000 units it's very first year, and this was an unbelievable feat for any car during those times, and had never been done before, and this had thought Ford a lesson, they learned that they could produce cars at this rate.
Ford would keep generating interest in the Mustang by adding grundles of new higher performance models, they created a large stable of these pony cars, during 1965 Ford would release the Mustang GT, yet more power, to make the motorheads go nuts.
The Mustang had already become a desirable commodity. It's standard equipment included, bucket seats. It had the immediately popular long hood , short deck look. At first it came as a sports coupe (two door hardtop), and a sporty looking convert able.
In the fall of 1964 the model the 2+2 was added to the lineup. From the outset, the option list was important in the making of the Mustang. Buyers could add appearance and convenience extras, plus some bolt on high performance hardware. However being based on a compact low priced Falcon, there was some room for improvement in the go fast department.
Combining available mechanical features with new visual pieces made the GT package a fairly thorough upgrade. First the buyer had to order an optional V-8 engine, which at the time included the 225 HP Challenger Special 289 at $157, or the high performance 271 HP 289 CID engine for $430.
The Mustang never did come up against the likes of an L88 Corvette or a ZL1 Camaro or Corvette, it would lose horribly, as the ZL1 Camaro was running in the 10's for the 1/4 mile with a 0-60 of 3.8 seconds, and the ZL1 Vette was even faster, and the L88 wasn't far behind these cars at all.
Now I know what you Mustang and Ford nuts are going to say, what about the GT350, what about the GT500, what about the Boss 429 mustang, and most of all what about the Cobra, well even the almighty Cobra never beat the ZL1 Corvette down, this is always what you Ford nuts fall back on.
The 289 and 302 Mustangs never beat down the 302 DZ Camaro's, and moreover I have driven them all, except the Cobra and I know the truth,
It;s true I am a Chevy lover, but I have owned or at least driven most of the Ford and Chevy model that were ever really considered to be the mean one's and I speak for knowledge, and not just as a Chevy or Ford lover.
And never did the Mustang or the Cobra even come close to doing battle with the L88 Corvette or the ZL1 Corvette, and still to this day hasn't done it.
In 1966 Chevrolet would begin to make plans to release it's secret weapon against the Mustang, this secret weapon would be called the Camaro, this car without a doubt would live up to Chevrolet's expectations of what it could do.
Just like the Mustang, the Camaro came from the factory with a modest straight six engine, and was not capable of any really impressive performance, but Chevy would not wait to add the performance to it's secret weapon, up on it's release in 1967, the Camaro would be a heavily optioned cars.
Camaro owners didn't have to wait for the next generation of cars to get what they wanted, the Chevrolet would offer the Camaro in a lot of different versions it's very first year, you could get a Z/28 Camaro which would come from the factory with a 290 HP 302 CID engine, a Muncy M-21 or M-22 Rock crusher transmission, bucket seats, front disc brakes, a heavy duty 12 bolt posi traction rear end, a center consol with a fuel gage, water temp gage, amp gage and oil pressure gage.
You could also order the SS option which came with two different engines, you could order the big block version with the 396 CID 375 HP engine, or you could order the L34 had 325 HP & the L78 had 375 HP. The SS was also available with the L48 V8 350 CID 295 HP package.
You also had the choice of rear end gearing ratios of 2.73:1, 3.07:1, 3.31:1, 3.55:1, 3.73:1, 4.10:1, 4.56:1 and 4.88:1. You could also get and RS version of the Camaro, or and RS/SS version, Chevrolet did go to extents to give the gearhead what they wanted, the RS version only came with a small block 350 CID, and an option for the 327 CID small block.
As you can imagine the RS/SS came with a 350 CID, 327 CID and a big block 396 CID, and had all the RS & SS suspension and steering upgrades.
Even that first year the Camaro was optioned heavily enough to make you lose your mind, and you wallet right behind that, but it was giving the gearhead's what they wanted, a lot of ways to set their cars up, with out buying it and tearing it down to build up the engine and suspension.
The Z/28 was first designed to go scca racing, and in it's first year in dominated the scca racing circuit, it was a tremendous success for Chevrolet and their de singers and high performance teams. By playing with high performance parts like a giant four barrel carburetor, an aluminum intake manifold and L79 Corvette heads, they got this motor to crank out about 350 HP @ 6200 RPM.. However to play it safe the advertised HP was 290@5800 R. P.M. The basic Z/28 package listed for $358.
Camaro lovers had a lot to look forward to for the next couple of years, that first generation of Camaro's was awesome, and that showed in how popular the Camaro got over the years. In 1968 the 4 bolt main block got introduced to the Z/28 it had the rpo code of MO, so you'd know if the rpo number had an MO in it then you more then likely had a 4 bolt main 302 CID 290 HP engine.
In 1968 there were 602 Z/28's built, and although it was a small number, it impressed the muscle car community, the Z/28 would leave a mark on motoring history forever, the Z/28 was crated primarily as a road race car, and it did very well in what it was intended for.
In 1969 the Z/28 would have a standard four bolt main 302 CID engine in it, and have the option of adding a 350 CID and 4 wheel disc brakes.
Now during those first three years, Don Yenko from Yenko Chevrolet, would have the idea to modify a standard Camaro, and add a 450 HP 427 CID engine, this car would be called the sYc or "super Yenko camaro" this car would hit the streets doing 11.30's in the 1/4 mile, and that is mean, to get the car you's order a copo "central office production order" copo 9561.
Now you could also take a step up to the Zl1 Camaro, in which case you'd order the copo 9560, with this option the big difference is the all aluminum 427 CID 450 HP engine, this made the big block weigh about the same as a small block, and of course you see the advantage there "right".
Both the Yenko and the ZL1 Camaro had a very modest Hp rating, when dynoed they were actually around 650 to 680 HP, these were not your basic Camaro's, these bad boys were only for a real man, a man that could handle having his neck snapped, and his back cracked.
About the author:
I'm a 41 year old man, who eats sleeps and breathes muscle cars, and the restoration of them, I own a restoration shop here in Salt Lake, and I build computers and web sites.
Written by: David C. Atkin
A straight six could never make the kind power Ford needed, so in 1965 the 225 HP 289 CID V8 was introduced to the Mustang, and this was a brilliant idea for Ford that skyrocketed the Mustang's sales, it was the introduction of the pony car. Basically the idea was to use a smaller mid sized car with a larger engine, thereby producing a much better power to weight ratio, and making the car more exciting to drive.
This would make the car a lot more interesting to the babe boomers, the younger people from the 1960's time era, these were the kids that were in their late teens and early 20's, this would be so appealing to the younger people of that time era, that it would set sales records that it would hold for years to come.
It would sell 500,000 units it's very first year, and this was an unbelievable feat for any car during those times, and had never been done before, and this had thought Ford a lesson, they learned that they could produce cars at this rate.
Ford would keep generating interest in the Mustang by adding grundles of new higher performance models, they created a large stable of these pony cars, during 1965 Ford would release the Mustang GT, yet more power, to make the motorheads go nuts.
The Mustang had already become a desirable commodity. It's standard equipment included, bucket seats. It had the immediately popular long hood , short deck look. At first it came as a sports coupe (two door hardtop), and a sporty looking convert able.
In the fall of 1964 the model the 2+2 was added to the lineup. From the outset, the option list was important in the making of the Mustang. Buyers could add appearance and convenience extras, plus some bolt on high performance hardware. However being based on a compact low priced Falcon, there was some room for improvement in the go fast department.
Combining available mechanical features with new visual pieces made the GT package a fairly thorough upgrade. First the buyer had to order an optional V-8 engine, which at the time included the 225 HP Challenger Special 289 at $157, or the high performance 271 HP 289 CID engine for $430.
The Mustang never did come up against the likes of an L88 Corvette or a ZL1 Camaro or Corvette, it would lose horribly, as the ZL1 Camaro was running in the 10's for the 1/4 mile with a 0-60 of 3.8 seconds, and the ZL1 Vette was even faster, and the L88 wasn't far behind these cars at all.
Now I know what you Mustang and Ford nuts are going to say, what about the GT350, what about the GT500, what about the Boss 429 mustang, and most of all what about the Cobra, well even the almighty Cobra never beat the ZL1 Corvette down, this is always what you Ford nuts fall back on.
The 289 and 302 Mustangs never beat down the 302 DZ Camaro's, and moreover I have driven them all, except the Cobra and I know the truth,
It;s true I am a Chevy lover, but I have owned or at least driven most of the Ford and Chevy model that were ever really considered to be the mean one's and I speak for knowledge, and not just as a Chevy or Ford lover.
And never did the Mustang or the Cobra even come close to doing battle with the L88 Corvette or the ZL1 Corvette, and still to this day hasn't done it.
In 1966 Chevrolet would begin to make plans to release it's secret weapon against the Mustang, this secret weapon would be called the Camaro, this car without a doubt would live up to Chevrolet's expectations of what it could do.
Just like the Mustang, the Camaro came from the factory with a modest straight six engine, and was not capable of any really impressive performance, but Chevy would not wait to add the performance to it's secret weapon, up on it's release in 1967, the Camaro would be a heavily optioned cars.
Camaro owners didn't have to wait for the next generation of cars to get what they wanted, the Chevrolet would offer the Camaro in a lot of different versions it's very first year, you could get a Z/28 Camaro which would come from the factory with a 290 HP 302 CID engine, a Muncy M-21 or M-22 Rock crusher transmission, bucket seats, front disc brakes, a heavy duty 12 bolt posi traction rear end, a center consol with a fuel gage, water temp gage, amp gage and oil pressure gage.
You could also order the SS option which came with two different engines, you could order the big block version with the 396 CID 375 HP engine, or you could order the L34 had 325 HP & the L78 had 375 HP. The SS was also available with the L48 V8 350 CID 295 HP package.
You also had the choice of rear end gearing ratios of 2.73:1, 3.07:1, 3.31:1, 3.55:1, 3.73:1, 4.10:1, 4.56:1 and 4.88:1. You could also get and RS version of the Camaro, or and RS/SS version, Chevrolet did go to extents to give the gearhead what they wanted, the RS version only came with a small block 350 CID, and an option for the 327 CID small block.
As you can imagine the RS/SS came with a 350 CID, 327 CID and a big block 396 CID, and had all the RS & SS suspension and steering upgrades.
Even that first year the Camaro was optioned heavily enough to make you lose your mind, and you wallet right behind that, but it was giving the gearhead's what they wanted, a lot of ways to set their cars up, with out buying it and tearing it down to build up the engine and suspension.
The Z/28 was first designed to go scca racing, and in it's first year in dominated the scca racing circuit, it was a tremendous success for Chevrolet and their de singers and high performance teams. By playing with high performance parts like a giant four barrel carburetor, an aluminum intake manifold and L79 Corvette heads, they got this motor to crank out about 350 HP @ 6200 RPM.. However to play it safe the advertised HP was 290@5800 R. P.M. The basic Z/28 package listed for $358.
Camaro lovers had a lot to look forward to for the next couple of years, that first generation of Camaro's was awesome, and that showed in how popular the Camaro got over the years. In 1968 the 4 bolt main block got introduced to the Z/28 it had the rpo code of MO, so you'd know if the rpo number had an MO in it then you more then likely had a 4 bolt main 302 CID 290 HP engine.
In 1968 there were 602 Z/28's built, and although it was a small number, it impressed the muscle car community, the Z/28 would leave a mark on motoring history forever, the Z/28 was crated primarily as a road race car, and it did very well in what it was intended for.
In 1969 the Z/28 would have a standard four bolt main 302 CID engine in it, and have the option of adding a 350 CID and 4 wheel disc brakes.
Now during those first three years, Don Yenko from Yenko Chevrolet, would have the idea to modify a standard Camaro, and add a 450 HP 427 CID engine, this car would be called the sYc or "super Yenko camaro" this car would hit the streets doing 11.30's in the 1/4 mile, and that is mean, to get the car you's order a copo "central office production order" copo 9561.
Now you could also take a step up to the Zl1 Camaro, in which case you'd order the copo 9560, with this option the big difference is the all aluminum 427 CID 450 HP engine, this made the big block weigh about the same as a small block, and of course you see the advantage there "right".
Both the Yenko and the ZL1 Camaro had a very modest Hp rating, when dynoed they were actually around 650 to 680 HP, these were not your basic Camaro's, these bad boys were only for a real man, a man that could handle having his neck snapped, and his back cracked.
About the author:
I'm a 41 year old man, who eats sleeps and breathes muscle cars, and the restoration of them, I own a restoration shop here in Salt Lake, and I build computers and web sites.
Written by: David C. Atkin
Carpet Repair Methods
A hole-istic approach to rug repair
Just like that first scratch on your new Lexus, a burn or stain on an otherwise good carpet can fray the nerves! I agree... your carpet is NOT an ashtray!
But, as usual, riding in on his white horse, NH will try to give you some comfort and maybe an idea or two to improve your wounded wall-to-wall!
First... call your homeowner's insurance company!
Just checking. Most insurance policies cover damage to carpets. If the burn is in an area or of an extent that repair is impractical or impossible, they may foot the bill for a new carpet!
METHODS OF REPAIR... only a little sleight of hand, some GOOP, and luck separate you from success
1) The "Shaving" Method
You can sometimes improve the appearance of the carpet by using a razor blade and carefully shaving off the melted ends, taking off as little material as you can. This works best with shags and dense carpets, but only if the burn is not too deep.
1) The "Hair Club for Men" Method
Find an area that you can "borrow" some fibers, such as the inside of a closet, under a radiator, or, better yet, a remnant from the original installation. Using a razor, trim the damaged area down to the backing. Using a toothpick or very small flat screwdriver, apply a waterproof adhesive, such as GOOP, carefully onto the backing. Do not get any on the surrounding fibers or you'll glue them together! Press the strands of fiber into the GOOP. Let the GOOP dry for 24 hours. If necessary, carefully trim the glued-in fibers back to the level of the carpet.
If you have an aversion to using a solvent based product, you can use a clear latex adhesive caulk. I prefer the GOOP because it has more initial tackiness and is more indestructible when dry.
1) The "PLUG" Method
This method involves completely cutting out the damaged carpet and replacing it with a new piece. Before you start, be aware that if your carpet has faded or is very worn, the patch may be noticeable. So do the smallest patch you can to improve your chances of aesthetic success. A triangle is better than a rectangle for little patches. It's just easier to cut and easier to reproduce for your patching piece.
Carpet does have a grain. You can see it when you vacuum... ever notice how the carpet "smooths" out when you put the vacuum in one direction, and seems to fluff up when you move in another direction? That is the grain, caused by manufacturing methods. This is more pronounced on some carpets than others, and you should observe your own carpet to see if you need to orient the patch to match the existing grain.
Many repair articles tell you to use carpet tape for this repair. Good idea if you are doing a large patch, but most patches are small, so by the time you try to force the tape through a little hole, it is a balled up useless clot of hair, dirt, and carpet fibers. If the hole is near enough to a wall so that a little rollback of the carpet is possible, use the carpet tape. If not, use good old GOOP! There is a second reason not to use the tape. Self-stick carpet tape is less moisture resistant than GOOP, so future carpet cleaning may cause a taped patch to release.
NOTE: I do not recommend rolling back carpets any more than a few feet because you may cause "ripples" in the carpet, necessitating restretching. So consider rolling back the carpet as a second, not a first, choice.
Cut your triangle around the damaged area of the carpet, and size your patch to be just slightly larger or the same size... never smaller. You want the fibers to bunch a little. Cut a small piece of burlap (or other heavy fabric) at least an inch larger than the repair area. The purpose of the fabric is to back up the adhesive so that the patch doesn't stick to the floor underneath or the carpet padding. To get the fabric in place, carefully lift the carpet up from the lining by carefully pulling surrounding fibers with a pliers. Then push it through the hole. Center it under the repair area.
Once the fabric is in place, and you have test fitted the patch and are satisfied with the appearance, start gluing by first applying GOOP to the fabric to seal it to the carpeting. Work a little under the carpet with a small screwdriver, toothpick, or other nonprofessional tool. DO NOT PUT ADHESIVE ON THE PATCH, ONLY ON THE FABRIC AND EDGES OF THE CUTOUT IN THE CARPET!! Press the patch in place, get it just where you want it, and stand a chair over the top of it to remind you not to disturb it for at least 24 hours, and not wash or fuss with it for at least 48 hours.
In closing, the only "trick" with this type of desperation repair is to not cause more damage than you already have. Remove as little material as you can and keep the glue off the face of the surrounding carpet. The Vegas odds for a visually pleasing repair decrease with the height of the pile and the age of the carpet, so you can expect to improve the look... just don't expect miracles.
Just like that first scratch on your new Lexus, a burn or stain on an otherwise good carpet can fray the nerves! I agree... your carpet is NOT an ashtray!
But, as usual, riding in on his white horse, NH will try to give you some comfort and maybe an idea or two to improve your wounded wall-to-wall!
First... call your homeowner's insurance company!
Just checking. Most insurance policies cover damage to carpets. If the burn is in an area or of an extent that repair is impractical or impossible, they may foot the bill for a new carpet!
METHODS OF REPAIR... only a little sleight of hand, some GOOP, and luck separate you from success
1) The "Shaving" Method
You can sometimes improve the appearance of the carpet by using a razor blade and carefully shaving off the melted ends, taking off as little material as you can. This works best with shags and dense carpets, but only if the burn is not too deep.
1) The "Hair Club for Men" Method
Find an area that you can "borrow" some fibers, such as the inside of a closet, under a radiator, or, better yet, a remnant from the original installation. Using a razor, trim the damaged area down to the backing. Using a toothpick or very small flat screwdriver, apply a waterproof adhesive, such as GOOP, carefully onto the backing. Do not get any on the surrounding fibers or you'll glue them together! Press the strands of fiber into the GOOP. Let the GOOP dry for 24 hours. If necessary, carefully trim the glued-in fibers back to the level of the carpet.
If you have an aversion to using a solvent based product, you can use a clear latex adhesive caulk. I prefer the GOOP because it has more initial tackiness and is more indestructible when dry.
1) The "PLUG" Method
This method involves completely cutting out the damaged carpet and replacing it with a new piece. Before you start, be aware that if your carpet has faded or is very worn, the patch may be noticeable. So do the smallest patch you can to improve your chances of aesthetic success. A triangle is better than a rectangle for little patches. It's just easier to cut and easier to reproduce for your patching piece.
Carpet does have a grain. You can see it when you vacuum... ever notice how the carpet "smooths" out when you put the vacuum in one direction, and seems to fluff up when you move in another direction? That is the grain, caused by manufacturing methods. This is more pronounced on some carpets than others, and you should observe your own carpet to see if you need to orient the patch to match the existing grain.
Many repair articles tell you to use carpet tape for this repair. Good idea if you are doing a large patch, but most patches are small, so by the time you try to force the tape through a little hole, it is a balled up useless clot of hair, dirt, and carpet fibers. If the hole is near enough to a wall so that a little rollback of the carpet is possible, use the carpet tape. If not, use good old GOOP! There is a second reason not to use the tape. Self-stick carpet tape is less moisture resistant than GOOP, so future carpet cleaning may cause a taped patch to release.
NOTE: I do not recommend rolling back carpets any more than a few feet because you may cause "ripples" in the carpet, necessitating restretching. So consider rolling back the carpet as a second, not a first, choice.
Cut your triangle around the damaged area of the carpet, and size your patch to be just slightly larger or the same size... never smaller. You want the fibers to bunch a little. Cut a small piece of burlap (or other heavy fabric) at least an inch larger than the repair area. The purpose of the fabric is to back up the adhesive so that the patch doesn't stick to the floor underneath or the carpet padding. To get the fabric in place, carefully lift the carpet up from the lining by carefully pulling surrounding fibers with a pliers. Then push it through the hole. Center it under the repair area.
Once the fabric is in place, and you have test fitted the patch and are satisfied with the appearance, start gluing by first applying GOOP to the fabric to seal it to the carpeting. Work a little under the carpet with a small screwdriver, toothpick, or other nonprofessional tool. DO NOT PUT ADHESIVE ON THE PATCH, ONLY ON THE FABRIC AND EDGES OF THE CUTOUT IN THE CARPET!! Press the patch in place, get it just where you want it, and stand a chair over the top of it to remind you not to disturb it for at least 24 hours, and not wash or fuss with it for at least 48 hours.
In closing, the only "trick" with this type of desperation repair is to not cause more damage than you already have. Remove as little material as you can and keep the glue off the face of the surrounding carpet. The Vegas odds for a visually pleasing repair decrease with the height of the pile and the age of the carpet, so you can expect to improve the look... just don't expect miracles.
Seven Easy Steps to Installing Your Own Walkway, Driveway and Patio Without Mortar or Concrete
(Part 1 of 5)
Brick...
Brick pavers are different from the brick used on house walls in that they are solid, i.e., without holes. Sizes vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but they generally come in 4' x 8', 3 5 /8' x 7 5 /8' and 3 3 /4' x 7 1/2'. Typical thicknesses run from about 1 1/4' to 2 1/4'. There are also many different styles to choose from, with each manufacturer carrying its own selection.
Sand...
This is what holds the brick in place. Use only well-graded, washed concrete sand.
Crushed Stone...
This creates a strong base. It may be called different things in different parts of the country-gravel, road base, or crusher run. Whatever the name, the stones should range in size from about 3 /4' down to fine dust.
Border or Edging Materials...
(your choice)
1. Brick
2. Rigid plastic or metal specifically intended as edging material
3. Wood: 2 x 4 or 4 x 4 pressure-treated, or natural redwood
For wood, metal or rigid plastic, you’ll need metal spikes that are at least 8” long.
String and Wooden Stakes...
Used for aligning brickwork
Tools...
1. Flat shovel
2. Wheelbarrow
3. Garden hose with fine spray nozzle
4. Hard garden rake
5. Broad-blade chisel, brick splitter or masonry saw for cutting and fitting the brick (the last two are readily available for rent at your local rental store or brick distributor)
6. Carpenter's level
7. Wood "screed" strip- a 2 x 4, at least 3' long (used to create a uniform sand bed depth)
8. Electric drill and appropriate size bit (for wood edging only)
9. Trowel
10. Broom
11. Plate compactor (rented)
(Part 2 of 5)
Step 1...Determining How Much You’ll Need
Pavers (32" and 36" layout patterns at bottom of page)
1. Determine the square feet (length x width) of the area you want to pave.
2. Estimate the number of pavers needed: For 4'x8' pavers- 4.5 pavers per sq. ft. For 3-5/8'x7-5/8' pavers- 5.2 pavers per sq. ft. For 3-3/4'x7-1/2' pavers- 5.1 pavers per sq. ft.
Add 5% extra for chipped or broken pavers.
Example: A 10' by 20' patio = 200 sq. ft. x 4.5 pavers/sq. ft. = 900 pavers
An additional 5% (900 x .05) = 45 pavers
Total needed so far = 945 pavers
Typically, you should also include an additional 1-1/2 bricks per linear foot of edge for cutting.
Example: linear footage = 10+20+20+10 = 60 linear feet
60 x 1.5 = 90 pavers
945 + 90 = 1035 total pavers needed for the job
Edging Material
1. Measure the linear foot of open edges- those not up against a house, curb, driveway, etc. This is the number of feet of edging material you will need. If you plan to edge with brick standing on end (soldier position), calculate one brick for each 4' of edge.
2. For wood or rigid plastic edging, plan on one stake for each 2 to 3 feet of edge.
Sand and Crushed Stone
1. The sand and crushed stone you will use in your project are measured in cubic yards (1 cubic yard = 27 cubic feet).
2. For any type of paving project, whether patio, walkway or driveway, you will always use a 1" depth of sand. To determine the number of cubic yards of sand, multiply the square footage by .00309.
Example: 200 sq. ft. patio x .00309 = 0.62 cubic yards of sand
3. The amount of crushed stone you will need depends on your type of paving project:
For light duty projects- such as walkways or patios-you will use a 4" depth of crushed stone. To determine the cubic yards of crushed stone needed to create a 4"base, multiply the total square footage by .01235.
For heavy duty projects- such as driveways-you will use an 8" depth of crushed stone. To determine the cubic yards of crushed stone needed to create an 8' base, multiply the total square footage by .02469.
Example: For a 200 sq. ft. patio, you will want a 4' base of crushed stone. 200 sq ft. x .01235 = 2.47 cubic yards of crushed stone.
Example: For a 200 sq. ft. driveway, you will want an 8' base of crushed stone. 200 sq. ft. x .02469 = 4.94 cubic yards of crushed stone.
(Part 3 of 5)
Step 2... Preparing the area (see site preparation graphic below)
1. Check with your local utility companies to determine the location of underground lines.
2. After you’re sure that the area you intend to pave has proper drainage (1/4" per foot slope away from foundations or other permanent structures), outline the area with stakes and string, and be sure to include the width of your edging material.
3. Use a flat shovel to remove only enough sod or dirt to provide a flat, level surface upon which to place the crushed stone base. It is important that dirt or excess soil that is removed and re-installed should be firmly settled with a plate compactor for an even base.
Step 3... Installing the Base
1. After compacting the soil, place the crushed stone base into the excavation. Using a plate compactor, tamp down no more than 4" (depth) of base material at one time. This is a critical step-if not done carefully and thoroughly, the bricks will move over time.
2. The base material should be slightly damp when compacting.
Step 4... Framing the Borders
1. The border, or edging system, is necessary to insure that your brick paving remains firmly in place and stays beautiful for years. Begin by installing, but not anchoring, your edging. Experiment now with the pattern you've chosen by temporarily laying brick around the edge of the paving. (Note that complex designs, like herringbone, may require significant amounts of cut brick.)
2. Once you’re satisfied with placement, anchor the edging by driving spikes at least 8' into the base every 2 to 3 feet. For wood edging, drill holes and drive the spikes through the middle of the wood. For brick edging, dig a trench deep enough so that the top edge of the edging brick will be flush with the brick surface of your finished project.
3. One border can remain unanchored until final brick installation to insure a tight fit. Now, remove the bricks you temporarily installed.
(Part 4 of 5)
Step 5... Installing the Sand Bed
1. For a walkway or other fairly narrow project, use 1" outside diameter pipe or cut two wood strips to the desired height of sand (1"). Place them on either side of the paving area. For a wider project, like a patio, place the strips about 3 feet apart.
2. Now, fill the area with sand. The sand can be dampened with a fine mist of water prior to installation to eliminate voids.
3. After you pour the sand, use the pipe or wood strips as rails on which to run your "screed" board to insure a uniform sand depth of 1' (Figure A). Be careful not to walk in or disturb the leveled sand.
4. Remove the screed rails and fill the indentations with loose sand. Level with a broom or trowel.
Step 6... Laying the Brick Pavers
1. Start at a corner if possible, one that includes an edge such as a house, curb, sidewalk or other fixed edge. Lay one run of brick from the corner along the two adjacent borders (Figure B). Set the brick on the sand. Don't press or hammer them into place. They should fit snugly, with about 1/16'-1/8' gap between each brick. As you work, be sure to work from the laid brick, not the sand. If you disturb the virgin sand, re-level it with a broom or trowel before laying more brick.
2. Continue to lay the brick in your pattern, working from your starting corner to the unanchored edge (Figure C). With the original perimeter brick as a reference, put a string line across the front of your laying edge (every 2 to 3 feet) to maintain alignment (Figure D). If the pattern wanders somewhat, a trowel, screwdriver, or wide-blade putty knife can be used to make small adjustments. Don't be concerned with small gaps between the paving brick- you'll fill them with sand.
3. Be sure to check the level and alignment of the brickwork frequently during installation.
4. Once all the full brick have been installed up to the final, unanchored edge, cut or saw the remaining brick to complete the bond pattern-but insure that the final edge brick are no smaller than two inches in width.
5. Anchor the final border.
(Part 5 of 5)
Step 7... Finishing up
1. Inspect your work, making final adjustments in brick height and joint alignment. Then sweep dry sand into all the joints to lock the brick into place.
2. To further set the brick, you may want to use the plate compactor to set the brick and gently tamp it down. If a compactor is used, spread a layer of sand over your pavers to prevent contact between the brick and the compactor.
3. The sand you swept into the joints will gradually settle. You should sweep additional sand into the joints as necessary over the next few rainstorms until the bricks are fully stabilized.
Relax and Enjoy... (unofficially, Step 8)
This is the best part. Take a well deserved rest and feast your eyes on your own creation. You've completed a paving project that will enhance the value of your home and, since brick only looks better with age, you can enjoy for years to come.
For the bricks for your next paving project, and for expert advice and answers to all your questions regarding brick paving, visit your local brick distributor. You'll find them in the Yellow Pages under "Brick".
Brick...
Brick pavers are different from the brick used on house walls in that they are solid, i.e., without holes. Sizes vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but they generally come in 4' x 8', 3 5 /8' x 7 5 /8' and 3 3 /4' x 7 1/2'. Typical thicknesses run from about 1 1/4' to 2 1/4'. There are also many different styles to choose from, with each manufacturer carrying its own selection.
Sand...
This is what holds the brick in place. Use only well-graded, washed concrete sand.
Crushed Stone...
This creates a strong base. It may be called different things in different parts of the country-gravel, road base, or crusher run. Whatever the name, the stones should range in size from about 3 /4' down to fine dust.
Border or Edging Materials...
(your choice)
1. Brick
2. Rigid plastic or metal specifically intended as edging material
3. Wood: 2 x 4 or 4 x 4 pressure-treated, or natural redwood
For wood, metal or rigid plastic, you’ll need metal spikes that are at least 8” long.
String and Wooden Stakes...
Used for aligning brickwork
Tools...
1. Flat shovel
2. Wheelbarrow
3. Garden hose with fine spray nozzle
4. Hard garden rake
5. Broad-blade chisel, brick splitter or masonry saw for cutting and fitting the brick (the last two are readily available for rent at your local rental store or brick distributor)
6. Carpenter's level
7. Wood "screed" strip- a 2 x 4, at least 3' long (used to create a uniform sand bed depth)
8. Electric drill and appropriate size bit (for wood edging only)
9. Trowel
10. Broom
11. Plate compactor (rented)
(Part 2 of 5)
Step 1...Determining How Much You’ll Need
Pavers (32" and 36" layout patterns at bottom of page)
1. Determine the square feet (length x width) of the area you want to pave.
2. Estimate the number of pavers needed: For 4'x8' pavers- 4.5 pavers per sq. ft. For 3-5/8'x7-5/8' pavers- 5.2 pavers per sq. ft. For 3-3/4'x7-1/2' pavers- 5.1 pavers per sq. ft.
Add 5% extra for chipped or broken pavers.
Example: A 10' by 20' patio = 200 sq. ft. x 4.5 pavers/sq. ft. = 900 pavers
An additional 5% (900 x .05) = 45 pavers
Total needed so far = 945 pavers
Typically, you should also include an additional 1-1/2 bricks per linear foot of edge for cutting.
Example: linear footage = 10+20+20+10 = 60 linear feet
60 x 1.5 = 90 pavers
945 + 90 = 1035 total pavers needed for the job
Edging Material
1. Measure the linear foot of open edges- those not up against a house, curb, driveway, etc. This is the number of feet of edging material you will need. If you plan to edge with brick standing on end (soldier position), calculate one brick for each 4' of edge.
2. For wood or rigid plastic edging, plan on one stake for each 2 to 3 feet of edge.
Sand and Crushed Stone
1. The sand and crushed stone you will use in your project are measured in cubic yards (1 cubic yard = 27 cubic feet).
2. For any type of paving project, whether patio, walkway or driveway, you will always use a 1" depth of sand. To determine the number of cubic yards of sand, multiply the square footage by .00309.
Example: 200 sq. ft. patio x .00309 = 0.62 cubic yards of sand
3. The amount of crushed stone you will need depends on your type of paving project:
For light duty projects- such as walkways or patios-you will use a 4" depth of crushed stone. To determine the cubic yards of crushed stone needed to create a 4"base, multiply the total square footage by .01235.
For heavy duty projects- such as driveways-you will use an 8" depth of crushed stone. To determine the cubic yards of crushed stone needed to create an 8' base, multiply the total square footage by .02469.
Example: For a 200 sq. ft. patio, you will want a 4' base of crushed stone. 200 sq ft. x .01235 = 2.47 cubic yards of crushed stone.
Example: For a 200 sq. ft. driveway, you will want an 8' base of crushed stone. 200 sq. ft. x .02469 = 4.94 cubic yards of crushed stone.
(Part 3 of 5)
Step 2... Preparing the area (see site preparation graphic below)
1. Check with your local utility companies to determine the location of underground lines.
2. After you’re sure that the area you intend to pave has proper drainage (1/4" per foot slope away from foundations or other permanent structures), outline the area with stakes and string, and be sure to include the width of your edging material.
3. Use a flat shovel to remove only enough sod or dirt to provide a flat, level surface upon which to place the crushed stone base. It is important that dirt or excess soil that is removed and re-installed should be firmly settled with a plate compactor for an even base.
Step 3... Installing the Base
1. After compacting the soil, place the crushed stone base into the excavation. Using a plate compactor, tamp down no more than 4" (depth) of base material at one time. This is a critical step-if not done carefully and thoroughly, the bricks will move over time.
2. The base material should be slightly damp when compacting.
Step 4... Framing the Borders
1. The border, or edging system, is necessary to insure that your brick paving remains firmly in place and stays beautiful for years. Begin by installing, but not anchoring, your edging. Experiment now with the pattern you've chosen by temporarily laying brick around the edge of the paving. (Note that complex designs, like herringbone, may require significant amounts of cut brick.)
2. Once you’re satisfied with placement, anchor the edging by driving spikes at least 8' into the base every 2 to 3 feet. For wood edging, drill holes and drive the spikes through the middle of the wood. For brick edging, dig a trench deep enough so that the top edge of the edging brick will be flush with the brick surface of your finished project.
3. One border can remain unanchored until final brick installation to insure a tight fit. Now, remove the bricks you temporarily installed.
(Part 4 of 5)
Step 5... Installing the Sand Bed
1. For a walkway or other fairly narrow project, use 1" outside diameter pipe or cut two wood strips to the desired height of sand (1"). Place them on either side of the paving area. For a wider project, like a patio, place the strips about 3 feet apart.
2. Now, fill the area with sand. The sand can be dampened with a fine mist of water prior to installation to eliminate voids.
3. After you pour the sand, use the pipe or wood strips as rails on which to run your "screed" board to insure a uniform sand depth of 1' (Figure A). Be careful not to walk in or disturb the leveled sand.
4. Remove the screed rails and fill the indentations with loose sand. Level with a broom or trowel.
Step 6... Laying the Brick Pavers
1. Start at a corner if possible, one that includes an edge such as a house, curb, sidewalk or other fixed edge. Lay one run of brick from the corner along the two adjacent borders (Figure B). Set the brick on the sand. Don't press or hammer them into place. They should fit snugly, with about 1/16'-1/8' gap between each brick. As you work, be sure to work from the laid brick, not the sand. If you disturb the virgin sand, re-level it with a broom or trowel before laying more brick.
2. Continue to lay the brick in your pattern, working from your starting corner to the unanchored edge (Figure C). With the original perimeter brick as a reference, put a string line across the front of your laying edge (every 2 to 3 feet) to maintain alignment (Figure D). If the pattern wanders somewhat, a trowel, screwdriver, or wide-blade putty knife can be used to make small adjustments. Don't be concerned with small gaps between the paving brick- you'll fill them with sand.
3. Be sure to check the level and alignment of the brickwork frequently during installation.
4. Once all the full brick have been installed up to the final, unanchored edge, cut or saw the remaining brick to complete the bond pattern-but insure that the final edge brick are no smaller than two inches in width.
5. Anchor the final border.
(Part 5 of 5)
Step 7... Finishing up
1. Inspect your work, making final adjustments in brick height and joint alignment. Then sweep dry sand into all the joints to lock the brick into place.
2. To further set the brick, you may want to use the plate compactor to set the brick and gently tamp it down. If a compactor is used, spread a layer of sand over your pavers to prevent contact between the brick and the compactor.
3. The sand you swept into the joints will gradually settle. You should sweep additional sand into the joints as necessary over the next few rainstorms until the bricks are fully stabilized.
Relax and Enjoy... (unofficially, Step 8)
This is the best part. Take a well deserved rest and feast your eyes on your own creation. You've completed a paving project that will enhance the value of your home and, since brick only looks better with age, you can enjoy for years to come.
For the bricks for your next paving project, and for expert advice and answers to all your questions regarding brick paving, visit your local brick distributor. You'll find them in the Yellow Pages under "Brick".
Tuesday, December 4, 2007
5 Things to Know When Shopping for Car Rentals
For most people the use of a car rental is a necessity. It generally is done as the result of a need for a replacement vehicle for a period of time. Most people do not rent cars on a regular basis and do not know all the ins and outs involved in the rental contract. There are some very basic, although important steps that should be followed when renting a car.
You do not need to have personal auto insurance to rent a car; they will ask you if you would like to purchase their insurance for the duration of the rental contract. If, however, you have your own insurance policy, be sure to call your agent to see if you are covered during your use of a rental car. If your personal auto policy covers you, there is no need to purchase a policy from the rental company.
After you have called around, found the best deal and reserved your choice car; it is time to pick it up. Be sure to have all of your personal paperwork with you, including your auto policy if you will not be buying theirs. Before you sign the contract, read through it and ask any questions you may have.
You will of course, need a valid drivers license to rent the car. If you do not have a license, they will not rent to you under any circumstances. Most companies will also require you to reserve your car with the use of a major credit card, however, you can pay in cash if you would prefer.
Keep in mind that most rental companies will not rent to any driver under the age of 25. If you fall under that magic number, you more than likely will need to get an older relative or friend to sign the actual contract for you.
About the author:
John Mancini has been writing about rental cars online and offline for a long time. Visit http://car-rentals-locator.com or http://dirt-cheap-car-rentals.com to read more about matters like car rentals and national car rental.
Written by: John Mancini
You do not need to have personal auto insurance to rent a car; they will ask you if you would like to purchase their insurance for the duration of the rental contract. If, however, you have your own insurance policy, be sure to call your agent to see if you are covered during your use of a rental car. If your personal auto policy covers you, there is no need to purchase a policy from the rental company.
After you have called around, found the best deal and reserved your choice car; it is time to pick it up. Be sure to have all of your personal paperwork with you, including your auto policy if you will not be buying theirs. Before you sign the contract, read through it and ask any questions you may have.
You will of course, need a valid drivers license to rent the car. If you do not have a license, they will not rent to you under any circumstances. Most companies will also require you to reserve your car with the use of a major credit card, however, you can pay in cash if you would prefer.
Keep in mind that most rental companies will not rent to any driver under the age of 25. If you fall under that magic number, you more than likely will need to get an older relative or friend to sign the actual contract for you.
About the author:
John Mancini has been writing about rental cars online and offline for a long time. Visit http://car-rentals-locator.com or http://dirt-cheap-car-rentals.com to read more about matters like car rentals and national car rental.
Written by: John Mancini
Monday, December 3, 2007
7 Hassle-Free ways to buying a new car
According to NADA, almost no single car model is sold at the same fixed price by car dealerships in a particular area. Every buyer receives a different final new car price quote.In other words every Honda Accord buyer in your area would have paid a different price for the car based on which car dealer they went to and how well they negotiated the price. Therefore, there is no level playing field on buying a new car. As you may have guessed, this translates to either visiting as many car dealers in your area as your time permits or negotiating really hard with a shrewd car dealer. My 7 hassle-free tips to buying a new car will certainly help you save money and pay one of the lowest prices in your area for any new car.
1.Finalize what car model you want and how much you’re willing to spend. This way you’ll be less pressured into making hasty decisions.
2.Identify two other competing car models that you might consider buying or can use as a negotiating leverage with car dealers. By doing this you’re showing the car dealer you have done your research and are not emotionally attached to this particular model (even though you may be).
3.Collect Internet new car price quotes for 3 competing car models. Do not step into a dealership without getting online new car price quotes. www.autoauctionbids.com is a good website to receive new car price quotes from multiple local dealers rather than just 1 car dealer as in the case of most Internet websites. Through magazines and publication, identify the dealer invoice price.
4.Take these new car price quotes and invoice price information to the car dealers who provided the online new car price quote to you. This not only shows the car dealer you have done your research, but also shows you are serious about buying a car.
5.Now that you have invoice price & new car price quotes from 3 competing car models, stick to the total price of the car during negotiations. The car dealer may lead you to monthly payments, trade-ins etc., but only focus on negotiating the final price down.
6.During the negotiation, mention about an even lower new car price quote received on a competing car from www.autoauctionbids.com. See if the dealer would match or beat it. Leave if you have to and see if the car dealer calls you back.
7.At this point, you are already getting a great deal on the car you want, so you can always go back to that dealership and buy the car at that price, which is probably the lowest price in town.
The advantage of this process is that, you’re not engaging in much face to face negotiation with the car dealer, since you already have some facts to share like the new car price quote and invoice price.However, the disadvantage of this is that the car dealer who made the lowest new car price quote on www.autoauctionbids.com, will pretty much be the lowest price you would pay for the car. You may be leaving money on the table unless you keep going back and forth from dealership to dealership to see if they would beat you new low new car price quote. An alternative to this and the ultimate hassle free way to buying a new car would be to continue negotiating on the Internet. AutoAuctionBids.com allows buyers to send back the lowest price quote received for a particular car to all participating dealers. The car dealers can view this lowest new car price quote and submit a lower quote. Another participating dealer can view this new low price and submit an even lower price. This can go on for up to 3 days and at the end of the car auction, buyers can contact the lowest bidding car dealer and buy the car most of the time at below invoice price.The best part of it all is that you can conduct 3 separate auctions for all 3 competing cars absolutely free, with no obligation to buy at the end of the auction.In summary, remember all new car price quotes are different and car dealers will make a hefty profit if you cannot provide facts about competing dealer new car price quotes and competing car models new car price quotes. Collect these prices first and no negotiation will be required.
Written by: Prashant Desai
1.Finalize what car model you want and how much you’re willing to spend. This way you’ll be less pressured into making hasty decisions.
2.Identify two other competing car models that you might consider buying or can use as a negotiating leverage with car dealers. By doing this you’re showing the car dealer you have done your research and are not emotionally attached to this particular model (even though you may be).
3.Collect Internet new car price quotes for 3 competing car models. Do not step into a dealership without getting online new car price quotes. www.autoauctionbids.com is a good website to receive new car price quotes from multiple local dealers rather than just 1 car dealer as in the case of most Internet websites. Through magazines and publication, identify the dealer invoice price.
4.Take these new car price quotes and invoice price information to the car dealers who provided the online new car price quote to you. This not only shows the car dealer you have done your research, but also shows you are serious about buying a car.
5.Now that you have invoice price & new car price quotes from 3 competing car models, stick to the total price of the car during negotiations. The car dealer may lead you to monthly payments, trade-ins etc., but only focus on negotiating the final price down.
6.During the negotiation, mention about an even lower new car price quote received on a competing car from www.autoauctionbids.com. See if the dealer would match or beat it. Leave if you have to and see if the car dealer calls you back.
7.At this point, you are already getting a great deal on the car you want, so you can always go back to that dealership and buy the car at that price, which is probably the lowest price in town.
The advantage of this process is that, you’re not engaging in much face to face negotiation with the car dealer, since you already have some facts to share like the new car price quote and invoice price.However, the disadvantage of this is that the car dealer who made the lowest new car price quote on www.autoauctionbids.com, will pretty much be the lowest price you would pay for the car. You may be leaving money on the table unless you keep going back and forth from dealership to dealership to see if they would beat you new low new car price quote. An alternative to this and the ultimate hassle free way to buying a new car would be to continue negotiating on the Internet. AutoAuctionBids.com allows buyers to send back the lowest price quote received for a particular car to all participating dealers. The car dealers can view this lowest new car price quote and submit a lower quote. Another participating dealer can view this new low price and submit an even lower price. This can go on for up to 3 days and at the end of the car auction, buyers can contact the lowest bidding car dealer and buy the car most of the time at below invoice price.The best part of it all is that you can conduct 3 separate auctions for all 3 competing cars absolutely free, with no obligation to buy at the end of the auction.In summary, remember all new car price quotes are different and car dealers will make a hefty profit if you cannot provide facts about competing dealer new car price quotes and competing car models new car price quotes. Collect these prices first and no negotiation will be required.
Written by: Prashant Desai
You Can Hang Anything With Wall Anchors
Every day... somewhere... something near and dear falls off someone's wall or ceiling! To that end we offer this collection of information, a primer as it were, of experiences and common sense to help you keep YOUR wall hangings where they belong!
(Even if you think you know everything there is to know about anchors, there may be something here for you, too!)
What is an anchor?
An anchor is a fastener that can attach one object to another in situations where screws, nails, adhesives or other simple fasteners are either impractical or ineffective. Two common surfaces where anchors are useful are 1) on extremely hard surfaces such as concrete and 2) on hollow surfaces such as doors, walls and ceilings...especially where there is no convenient wood stud or beam behind the surface.
There are many styles of anchors, each one having different strengths and weaknesses... literally! An anchor that is strong installed in drywall may not be as strong in concrete. Or visa versa! Perhaps the biggest problem with anchors is almost all of them "feel" strong when first installed. Over time, though, an anchor that is mismatched to the wall material will eventually loosen up causing damage to the wall, your hanging and whatever was underneath it!
This confusion is compounded by manufacturers who sell towel bars, small cabinets and other "hung" items with anchors that are not strong enough for the job. In the interest of "economy", the least expensive anchors are sometimes included with no instruction concerning safer, alternate mounting methods.
How much weight can an anchor hold? That depends on how much you trust my disclaimer...
Trying to pin me down, huh? I wish I could tell you with precision, but the strength of any anchor is subject to a number of variables, such as 1) the type of object being hung, 2) the type of surface the anchor is installed on, 3) the condition of the surface... and, of course, 4) the type of anchor!
For example, you might successfully hang a 25 lb wired mirror onto a screw in a plastic expansion anchor (in drywall) where the force in downward. The same anchor and screw might not be able to support a 25 pound cabinet if the cabinet tends to pull the anchor outward. It's all relative. Strength, that is.
I will be including some load data on each type of anchor, but take this more as a measure of relative strength between the types of anchors... not a rule or firm guideline! If your wall is structurally weak, has been repaired, has water damage, etc., it is impossible to know the true strength without on-site testing. Of course, that's up to you 'cause you're there and I'm way over here!
Types of anchors and their uses...
All anchors can be divided into two basic types... expansion anchors and hollow wall anchors.
1) Expansion anchors are used in thick, solid materials... concrete, brick, mortar, metals or even wood. They work by expanding when a screw or bolt is threaded into them. If you remember anything about expansion anchors, remember this...
Expansion anchors are only as strong as the material they are installed in.
If an expansion anchor is installed in a soft material (such as drywall), it may appear to be strong but don't be fooled... the strength is minimal and it will eventually loosen and/or pull out if too much stress is put on it.
2) Hollow-wall anchors, on the other hand, will not work in solid materials. Instead, they are designed to be used in thin materials or on hollow walls. They each have a unique way of spreading within the hollow of the wall. Once spread, the anchor cannot be pulled back through the smaller installation hole. The strength of a spreading anchor is proportional to the size of the "spread"!
Those are the basics... now lets look at some specific anchors from the least strong to the most strong. We will investigate specific concrete anchors in another article.
Plastic (and other) expansion anchors
Plastic expansion anchors are one of the most commonly used... and abused... wall anchors. They are available in a number of sizes and designs (see graphic). Larger plastic anchors will accept larger screws and therefore have greater holding capacity. The more heavily "ribbed" anchors will give the greatest gripping strength, regardless of the wall material.
When a screw is installed into a plastic anchor it expands, exerting force against the material it is installed in. As with all expansion anchors, they are strongest when used in a solid material, such as concrete. Their strength is even limited in concrete, though, because plastic is not indestructible... hence they may pull out because of anchor breakage! (For this specific application there are expansion anchors made of lead... there is one in the graphic above in the upper left corner. More in a future article on concrete anchors!)
Installing a plastic anchor is a matter of first making a hole for the anchor in the surface. This can be done with a drill in hard materials, or an awl in drywall. I have always preferred using an awl in drywall since there is no dust produced. However, if you prefer using a drill choose an old, worn drill bit if you have one available. Drywall is very abrasive and will dull a good drill bit!
Then just press the anchor into the hole until it is flush with the surface. It is preferable that the hole be slightly smaller than the maximum width of the anchor so, if necessary, tap the anchor flush with a hammer. Caution here... if the hole is too small the anchor will collapse when you tap it in!
Overall, plastic expansion anchors are the least strong of all the anchors discussed here, with actual pull-out strength of around 30 pounds in concrete but as little as 10 lbs in drywall (depending on the anchor and screw size).
Unfortunately, many people use plastic anchors in drywall when they shouldn't.
When can you safely use a plastic anchor in drywall?
When the load is light and the force is perpendicular to the anchor. You can hang rather heavy pictures or mirrors using plastic anchors, placing the wire or picture hanging hooks onto the anchor's screw. Use two anchors and screws whenever possible... the additional strength is desirable plus doing this is good picture hanging practice, anyway. Ask any professional picture framer!!
To "steady" or stabilize a wall hanging that is being held up primarily by another, stronger anchor. This method of hanging is useful on towel bars or curtain rods that have two closely-spaced holes. Use a strong anchor such as a toggle in the top hole and a plastic anchor in the bottom hole. (More on this issue under "toggles").
Never use a plastic expansion anchor in a ceiling under any circumstances unless you are hanging something extremely light, such as a smoke alarm! You will be sorry!
Removing an expansion anchor...
If it didn't already pull itself out... insert a screw partially into the anchor and pull it out. Wiggling while pulling may help free up the anchor. THE SCREW, I mean!
The Sticky Issue of Adhesives, Glues and Tapes
Well, maybe I'm exaggerating just a little bit, but without modern adhesives, much of what we take for granted today would not stay together. Special glues hold our cars, our countertops, our furniture and our computers together. Adhesives allow thin things made of different materials to be bonded together in ways that are impossible with mechanical fasteners. Thin materials most of all demand creative fastening... and glues are often the best choice. The words "glue" and "adhesive" are oft used interchangeably. To set the technical record straight (even though I still reserve the "creative license" to call an adhesive a glue and vice versa), glue is defined as:
"... a hard, brittle gelatin made by boiling animal skins, bones, hoofs, etc. to a jelly: when heated in water, it forms a sticky viscous liquid used to stick things together" Webster's New Universal Unabridged Dictionary
Just makes you want to dance with the chickens, doesn't it? On the other hand, "adhesive" is any product, including glue, that can be used to bond two separate objects together. Unfortunately, no one adhesive works in all situations, though some may be used in all sorts of situations. Fun, right? The Natural Handyman carries a variety of different adhesives in his bag of tricks. Here is where you can take a peek inside... just keep these secrets between me and you. Happy gluing!!
Using Hot Melt Adhesive
I have grown fond of hot melt adhesive. Fast setting is its most noble attribute. However, it is not an especially strong adhesive and is intended to be applied somewhat thickly. This makes it generally unsuitable for quality finish woodworking. I have seen inexpensive cabinets literally fall apart because they were assembled with hot melt.
But this is not to take away from its versatility and usability. It is employed extensively in craft making, artificial flower arranging, in manufacturing to seal cardboard boxes and in some product assembly. Hot melt glues are available in high and low temperature formulations.
It is great when used as a secondary adhesive, to hold items together for screwing or primary gluing (see the Famous Glue Trick).
There are many types of hot melt adhesives manufactured for professional and industrial use that far exceed the strength and durability of the typical hardware/craft store products. The seaming tape that carpet installers use is glued with a special hot melt adhesive and, as I'm sure you know, carpet seams are about as permanent as anything in this life!
Adhesive Technologies, SDA/Craft Technologies, H.B. Fuller and 3M are all major manufacturers of hot melt glues, and their products are widely available in hardware, home and craft stores.
Tips and tricks...
Hot glue guns are simple to use. Plug the gun in, allow it time to heat up, and then squeeze the trigger to apply the adhesive. Melted glue very hot and will burn the skin instantly, so be careful! Press the parts to be glued together and hold till set.
Sometimes the glue stick will not feed properly and may need a push. Feeding too much glue at once will cause the gun's mechanism to slip against the stick till more of the glue stick melts. Also, once a stick is almost used up the gun may need a second stick to push the first through.
Different hot melt glues have different setting times, and this will determine its proper uses. Some glues dry almost instantly and are best for situations where repositioning of the parts is unlikely and speed is important, such as in many craft projects. On the other hand, slower hardening glues are better when it may take a little time to position the parts, such as when installing cleats for drywall repairs. In my own work, the only hot melt adhesive I used was a slow-setting type. I realized that each time I changed the glue, I had to waste whatever was remaining of the stick I started. Waste not, want not!
Most importantly, hot melt glue is designed to be applied thickly and seems to stick best when it is not squeezed too thin. That means it can't be used where the tolerances are tight, such as in fine woodworking. No problem, since there are stronger, better glues designed for woodworking, such as polyurethane glue or good old wood glue, that allow the repositioning time needed to apply clamps.
Duct Tape... Uses and Abuses
I was, at one point in my career, a duct tape addict. I would lash together lumber, repair hammers, fix my trusty wooden tool box... ad infinitum. Then, in my travels through thousands of homes, I came to see the weakness in duct tape as some repairs done with it days, weeks or months before began to fail. The weakness in duct tape's armor is due to three factors... poor adhesive quality, heat and ultraviolet light.
The adhesive used on duct tape is tenacious. If you've ever torn off a piece and had it touch itself, you know the meaning of sticky! Straight to the garbage can for that strip, yessirree. But as strong as this adhesive is, it is not really permanent like a setting-type adhesive. And some "bargain basement" duct tapes are not worthy enough to wrap fish!
Heat can soften duct tape adhesive, making it lose strength. If there is weight or stress on the repair, this softening can cause the tape to slip and the joint or attachment to fail. This can be prevented by use of a secondary fastener such as a clamp or strap. A classic example of this faux pas happened to a customer of mine a number of years ago...
A repair person was called in to troubleshoot and repair a dryer vent line which no longer blew to the outside. All visible connections seemed to be OK, so he had to cut the wall open behind the dryer to assess the situation. What he found was a failed junction between two pieces of plastic duct hose connected together at eye level by a 12" long piece of 4" round aluminum ducting with duct tape alone as the fastener!
I suppose he thought that the last guy just didn't use enough tape, so he wrapped the connection in what appeared to be half a roll of duct tape... with no other fasteners... and closed the wall back up. It took about six months for the repair to fail. I'm amazed it lasted that long! The heat from the clothes dryer caused the connections to separate as the tape softened, until the two sections of pipe totally separated from each other within the newly repaired and painted wall. Darn..
The repair guy, of course, has never been heard from again.
I don't have the trust in duct tape I once had. So as a rule, unless I am looking for a temporary repair, I always find a way to supplement the strength and air-sealing properties of duct tape with a more permanent fastener!
Using duct tape outside...
No, I didn't forget about the effect of ultraviolet light on duct tape, Randy. If you don't know Randy, he is the editor of the Feather River Canyon News, and a while back he reminded me of the problems in using duct tape outside for anything but temporary repairs... especially when exposed to the sun. He likened it to a "a powder-coated set of threads with dried up adhesive." Enough said!
However, I understand that there are some newer duct tapes that are UV-resistant, making them more suitable for outdoor use. For example, both Gorilla Tape and Scotch® All-Weather Tape are outdoor-friendly. Be sure to read the label before purchasing and duct tape for outdoor use.
The Many Types of Wood Glue
Good question! You would think that with the chemical marvels described above a water-based wood glue would have gone the way of the dinosaur. You couldn't be more wrong. In its own element... that favorite of termites cellulosis dinnerosis (a.k.a. wood)... good ol' wood glue... is as strong or stronger than those other fancy-schmancy adhesives.
Why? A number of reasons...
Wood glue is designed to set thin so there are no gaps between wooden parts.
They set slowly or quickly, depending on the glue chosen and your needs.
They are available in interior, water resistant or waterproof varieties.
There are three basic types of wood glues to be concerned with. There are of course variations on these and new glue products and formulations are popping up like mushrooms. So experiment if you like, but these three are recognized as the premier woodworking glues.
PVA (polyvinyl acetate)
PVA's are the traditional wood glues, and some of the most common adhesives. They are also called "aliphatic resins". They provide a strong wood-to-wood bond but will not adhere strongly or consistently to nonporous materials, such as metal or plastics. It is important to use clamps to hold the wood parts firmly while the glue is drying. Any movement after the initial "set", usually occurring in a few minutes, will cause breaks in the glue bond that will make it much weaker.
PVA's do not stick well to other glues, so they are of little value in furniture repair where old glue failure is the culprit... loose chair spindles immediately come to mind. Though the "pros" tell you to remove the old glue to give the new glue a chance to absorb into the wood, in reality it is often difficult or impossible to remove the old glue sufficiently to make a lasting repair unless the entire piece is disassembled. Instead, use a solvent-based adhesive, such as GOOP (see article on GOOP for more info).
Though widely used by woodworkers, PVA's are not really suitable as a primary adhesive or for edge gluing... attaching boards together to make wide surfaces such as tabletops or other furniture. They are "plastic", so without other supporting fasteners such as screws or nails, metal reinforcements or dowels, the glued joints will eventually break apart. For pro-quality wood gluing where extra fasteners might get in the way, read the sections in this chapter on polyurethane glue and hide glues.
One of the more well known PVA adhesives... for all parents and anyone who was ever a kid... is Elmer's White Glue... effective on paper but not very strong on wood. Yellow wood glues offer more strength and greater water resistance. Note that PVA glues are not completely waterproof, however.
Some examples of PVA glues are Titebond Original Wood Glue and Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue.
Water-resistant PVA glues have all the benefits of regular PVA glue but have increased tolerance to moisture and extra mildew resistance. Because of these additional benefits, I use them for all applications PVA glues are suitable for rather than keeping both standard and water-resistant PVA in my larder.
Titebond II and Elmer's Carpenter's Exterior Wood Glue are two widely available brands of water-resistant exterior glues.
Polyurethane glue
Polyurethane glue is one of the best waterproof glues available, but until recently was not available outside professional circles. It is a one-part adhesive that will adhere to wood, metals, stone, ceramics and many plastics.
Polyurethane glue does not dry like PVA glues, but instead chemically reacts with moisture in the objects being glued or even in the air. This reaction causes an expansion of the glue, filling all voids and giving an exceptionally solid glue joint. If the material is dry, spraying a light mist onto it before gluing accelerates the curing process.
In many ways, polyurethane may be the best wood glue. It both accepts wood stains and sands well in thin coatings, neither of which are true for PVA wood glues. Most other adhesives act as a sealer on the wood surface. And removing these other adhesives can be difficult because they dry to a "gummy" texture that resists removal from the wood by sanding... the second strong reason to consider trying polyurethane glue for your next project.
Polyurethane glue has a longer setting time than PVA glues, so you have more time to adjust misaligned clamps and other errors before you reach the gluing world's version of the "point of no return".
"... a hard, brittle gelatin made by boiling animal skins, bones, hoofs, etc. to a jelly: when heated in water, it forms a sticky viscous liquid used to stick things together" Webster's New Universal Unabridged Dictionary
Just makes you want to dance with the chickens, doesn't it? On the other hand, "adhesive" is any product, including glue, that can be used to bond two separate objects together. Unfortunately, no one adhesive works in all situations, though some may be used in all sorts of situations. Fun, right? The Natural Handyman carries a variety of different adhesives in his bag of tricks. Here is where you can take a peek inside... just keep these secrets between me and you. Happy gluing!!
Using Hot Melt Adhesive
I have grown fond of hot melt adhesive. Fast setting is its most noble attribute. However, it is not an especially strong adhesive and is intended to be applied somewhat thickly. This makes it generally unsuitable for quality finish woodworking. I have seen inexpensive cabinets literally fall apart because they were assembled with hot melt.
But this is not to take away from its versatility and usability. It is employed extensively in craft making, artificial flower arranging, in manufacturing to seal cardboard boxes and in some product assembly. Hot melt glues are available in high and low temperature formulations.
It is great when used as a secondary adhesive, to hold items together for screwing or primary gluing (see the Famous Glue Trick).
There are many types of hot melt adhesives manufactured for professional and industrial use that far exceed the strength and durability of the typical hardware/craft store products. The seaming tape that carpet installers use is glued with a special hot melt adhesive and, as I'm sure you know, carpet seams are about as permanent as anything in this life!
Adhesive Technologies, SDA/Craft Technologies, H.B. Fuller and 3M are all major manufacturers of hot melt glues, and their products are widely available in hardware, home and craft stores.
Tips and tricks...
Hot glue guns are simple to use. Plug the gun in, allow it time to heat up, and then squeeze the trigger to apply the adhesive. Melted glue very hot and will burn the skin instantly, so be careful! Press the parts to be glued together and hold till set.
Sometimes the glue stick will not feed properly and may need a push. Feeding too much glue at once will cause the gun's mechanism to slip against the stick till more of the glue stick melts. Also, once a stick is almost used up the gun may need a second stick to push the first through.
Different hot melt glues have different setting times, and this will determine its proper uses. Some glues dry almost instantly and are best for situations where repositioning of the parts is unlikely and speed is important, such as in many craft projects. On the other hand, slower hardening glues are better when it may take a little time to position the parts, such as when installing cleats for drywall repairs. In my own work, the only hot melt adhesive I used was a slow-setting type. I realized that each time I changed the glue, I had to waste whatever was remaining of the stick I started. Waste not, want not!
Most importantly, hot melt glue is designed to be applied thickly and seems to stick best when it is not squeezed too thin. That means it can't be used where the tolerances are tight, such as in fine woodworking. No problem, since there are stronger, better glues designed for woodworking, such as polyurethane glue or good old wood glue, that allow the repositioning time needed to apply clamps.
Duct Tape... Uses and Abuses
I was, at one point in my career, a duct tape addict. I would lash together lumber, repair hammers, fix my trusty wooden tool box... ad infinitum. Then, in my travels through thousands of homes, I came to see the weakness in duct tape as some repairs done with it days, weeks or months before began to fail. The weakness in duct tape's armor is due to three factors... poor adhesive quality, heat and ultraviolet light.
The adhesive used on duct tape is tenacious. If you've ever torn off a piece and had it touch itself, you know the meaning of sticky! Straight to the garbage can for that strip, yessirree. But as strong as this adhesive is, it is not really permanent like a setting-type adhesive. And some "bargain basement" duct tapes are not worthy enough to wrap fish!
Heat can soften duct tape adhesive, making it lose strength. If there is weight or stress on the repair, this softening can cause the tape to slip and the joint or attachment to fail. This can be prevented by use of a secondary fastener such as a clamp or strap. A classic example of this faux pas happened to a customer of mine a number of years ago...
A repair person was called in to troubleshoot and repair a dryer vent line which no longer blew to the outside. All visible connections seemed to be OK, so he had to cut the wall open behind the dryer to assess the situation. What he found was a failed junction between two pieces of plastic duct hose connected together at eye level by a 12" long piece of 4" round aluminum ducting with duct tape alone as the fastener!
I suppose he thought that the last guy just didn't use enough tape, so he wrapped the connection in what appeared to be half a roll of duct tape... with no other fasteners... and closed the wall back up. It took about six months for the repair to fail. I'm amazed it lasted that long! The heat from the clothes dryer caused the connections to separate as the tape softened, until the two sections of pipe totally separated from each other within the newly repaired and painted wall. Darn..
The repair guy, of course, has never been heard from again.
I don't have the trust in duct tape I once had. So as a rule, unless I am looking for a temporary repair, I always find a way to supplement the strength and air-sealing properties of duct tape with a more permanent fastener!
Using duct tape outside...
No, I didn't forget about the effect of ultraviolet light on duct tape, Randy. If you don't know Randy, he is the editor of the Feather River Canyon News, and a while back he reminded me of the problems in using duct tape outside for anything but temporary repairs... especially when exposed to the sun. He likened it to a "a powder-coated set of threads with dried up adhesive." Enough said!
However, I understand that there are some newer duct tapes that are UV-resistant, making them more suitable for outdoor use. For example, both Gorilla Tape and Scotch® All-Weather Tape are outdoor-friendly. Be sure to read the label before purchasing and duct tape for outdoor use.
The Many Types of Wood Glue
Good question! You would think that with the chemical marvels described above a water-based wood glue would have gone the way of the dinosaur. You couldn't be more wrong. In its own element... that favorite of termites cellulosis dinnerosis (a.k.a. wood)... good ol' wood glue... is as strong or stronger than those other fancy-schmancy adhesives.
Why? A number of reasons...
Wood glue is designed to set thin so there are no gaps between wooden parts.
They set slowly or quickly, depending on the glue chosen and your needs.
They are available in interior, water resistant or waterproof varieties.
There are three basic types of wood glues to be concerned with. There are of course variations on these and new glue products and formulations are popping up like mushrooms. So experiment if you like, but these three are recognized as the premier woodworking glues.
PVA (polyvinyl acetate)
PVA's are the traditional wood glues, and some of the most common adhesives. They are also called "aliphatic resins". They provide a strong wood-to-wood bond but will not adhere strongly or consistently to nonporous materials, such as metal or plastics. It is important to use clamps to hold the wood parts firmly while the glue is drying. Any movement after the initial "set", usually occurring in a few minutes, will cause breaks in the glue bond that will make it much weaker.
PVA's do not stick well to other glues, so they are of little value in furniture repair where old glue failure is the culprit... loose chair spindles immediately come to mind. Though the "pros" tell you to remove the old glue to give the new glue a chance to absorb into the wood, in reality it is often difficult or impossible to remove the old glue sufficiently to make a lasting repair unless the entire piece is disassembled. Instead, use a solvent-based adhesive, such as GOOP (see article on GOOP for more info).
Though widely used by woodworkers, PVA's are not really suitable as a primary adhesive or for edge gluing... attaching boards together to make wide surfaces such as tabletops or other furniture. They are "plastic", so without other supporting fasteners such as screws or nails, metal reinforcements or dowels, the glued joints will eventually break apart. For pro-quality wood gluing where extra fasteners might get in the way, read the sections in this chapter on polyurethane glue and hide glues.
One of the more well known PVA adhesives... for all parents and anyone who was ever a kid... is Elmer's White Glue... effective on paper but not very strong on wood. Yellow wood glues offer more strength and greater water resistance. Note that PVA glues are not completely waterproof, however.
Some examples of PVA glues are Titebond Original Wood Glue and Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue.
Water-resistant PVA glues have all the benefits of regular PVA glue but have increased tolerance to moisture and extra mildew resistance. Because of these additional benefits, I use them for all applications PVA glues are suitable for rather than keeping both standard and water-resistant PVA in my larder.
Titebond II and Elmer's Carpenter's Exterior Wood Glue are two widely available brands of water-resistant exterior glues.
Polyurethane glue
Polyurethane glue is one of the best waterproof glues available, but until recently was not available outside professional circles. It is a one-part adhesive that will adhere to wood, metals, stone, ceramics and many plastics.
Polyurethane glue does not dry like PVA glues, but instead chemically reacts with moisture in the objects being glued or even in the air. This reaction causes an expansion of the glue, filling all voids and giving an exceptionally solid glue joint. If the material is dry, spraying a light mist onto it before gluing accelerates the curing process.
In many ways, polyurethane may be the best wood glue. It both accepts wood stains and sands well in thin coatings, neither of which are true for PVA wood glues. Most other adhesives act as a sealer on the wood surface. And removing these other adhesives can be difficult because they dry to a "gummy" texture that resists removal from the wood by sanding... the second strong reason to consider trying polyurethane glue for your next project.
Polyurethane glue has a longer setting time than PVA glues, so you have more time to adjust misaligned clamps and other errors before you reach the gluing world's version of the "point of no return".
Buying A Fuel-Efficient Car
Whether you buy a new or used vehicle, fuel efficiency--good gas mileage--is high on the list of most buyers' concerns. The difference between choosing a fuel-efficient car or one that guzzles gas, will either save or cost you money over the life of the vehicle, which could be substantial. Fuel efficiency varies widely from one car to the next.
Obviously you can check the EPA rating for city/highway MPG on the window sticker, although most of us know the average car never reaches those numbers. You can also check consumer guides, car magazines and Web sites, Web site forums or ask friends, relatives and co-workers which vehicles they recommend as fuel-efficient cars. Don't buy more car than you need, as larger vehicles generally have bigger engines that are less fuel-efficient. Find the most fuel-efficient car in the size group you're interested in, whether a two-seater, compact, mid-sized, SUV or pickup truck.
There are several online sites where you can compare fuel consumption ratings of any car.Your choice of transmission can also affect the fuel efficiency of the vehicle. Generally, a car with manual transmission is a more fuel-efficient car than one with automatic-assuming you shift properly. And a manual with overdrive, tachometer or shift indicator is the biggest fuel saver, saving up to 10% on fuel costs. If you do buy an automatic, which makes more sense for larger cars, the more gears the better. Under normal driving conditions, smaller engines offer better fuel efficiency and economy than larger ones.
All other things being equal, the larger engine and the more cylinders it has, the more fuel it consumes. Additionally, cars with smaller engines usually cost less and gas costs are lower because you don't need higher octane gas. That doesn't mean a bigger engine is never a good choice. In some cases, a larger, more powerful engine may provide the greater fuel efficiency. If you use your vehicle for work or often tow heavy loads, a smaller engine could burn more fuel if it has to work too hard and function beyond its most fuel-efficient range. Depending on the type and size of motor vehicle you purchase, you may have the choice of front-wheel, rear-wheel, four-wheel or all-wheel drive.
The majority of passenger cars and minivans have front-wheel drive, a design that supplies better traction and more interior room than rear-wheel drive. Although front-wheel drive was originally adopted to improve fuel economy over rear-wheel drive by reducing the weight and size of cars without giving up driving performance or interior space, there's really not much difference in fuel efficiency between the two. And although four-wheel and all-wheel drive provide better traction and braking in certain driving conditions, the weight and friction of the additional drivetrain parts may increase fuel consumption by up to 10% over a two-wheel drive vehicle. Most often in SUVs and pickup trucks, four-wheel drive is enabled at will by the driver when additional traction is necessary.
All-wheel drive is an option on some SUVs and a minority of passenger cars. Full-time all-wheel drive, however, makes for the least fuel-efficient car, because all four wheels are always being driven, drawing power from the engine and thus using more gas.Another way to be a fuel saver, is by limiting the options you select for your car. You may not have realized that many conveniences from power windows, seats and mirrors to air conditioning and seat warmers decrease fuel efficiency and cost you more in fuel consumption. They add either weight, increase aerodynamic drag or pull extra power from the engine or through the alternator. Aluminium wheels are one of the few options that actually reduce weight and thereby increase fuel efficiency. Obviously, considering other fuel options such as a hybrid electric car, is another choice for a fuel-efficient car.
Written by: Andrea Susan Glass
Obviously you can check the EPA rating for city/highway MPG on the window sticker, although most of us know the average car never reaches those numbers. You can also check consumer guides, car magazines and Web sites, Web site forums or ask friends, relatives and co-workers which vehicles they recommend as fuel-efficient cars. Don't buy more car than you need, as larger vehicles generally have bigger engines that are less fuel-efficient. Find the most fuel-efficient car in the size group you're interested in, whether a two-seater, compact, mid-sized, SUV or pickup truck.
There are several online sites where you can compare fuel consumption ratings of any car.Your choice of transmission can also affect the fuel efficiency of the vehicle. Generally, a car with manual transmission is a more fuel-efficient car than one with automatic-assuming you shift properly. And a manual with overdrive, tachometer or shift indicator is the biggest fuel saver, saving up to 10% on fuel costs. If you do buy an automatic, which makes more sense for larger cars, the more gears the better. Under normal driving conditions, smaller engines offer better fuel efficiency and economy than larger ones.
All other things being equal, the larger engine and the more cylinders it has, the more fuel it consumes. Additionally, cars with smaller engines usually cost less and gas costs are lower because you don't need higher octane gas. That doesn't mean a bigger engine is never a good choice. In some cases, a larger, more powerful engine may provide the greater fuel efficiency. If you use your vehicle for work or often tow heavy loads, a smaller engine could burn more fuel if it has to work too hard and function beyond its most fuel-efficient range. Depending on the type and size of motor vehicle you purchase, you may have the choice of front-wheel, rear-wheel, four-wheel or all-wheel drive.
The majority of passenger cars and minivans have front-wheel drive, a design that supplies better traction and more interior room than rear-wheel drive. Although front-wheel drive was originally adopted to improve fuel economy over rear-wheel drive by reducing the weight and size of cars without giving up driving performance or interior space, there's really not much difference in fuel efficiency between the two. And although four-wheel and all-wheel drive provide better traction and braking in certain driving conditions, the weight and friction of the additional drivetrain parts may increase fuel consumption by up to 10% over a two-wheel drive vehicle. Most often in SUVs and pickup trucks, four-wheel drive is enabled at will by the driver when additional traction is necessary.
All-wheel drive is an option on some SUVs and a minority of passenger cars. Full-time all-wheel drive, however, makes for the least fuel-efficient car, because all four wheels are always being driven, drawing power from the engine and thus using more gas.Another way to be a fuel saver, is by limiting the options you select for your car. You may not have realized that many conveniences from power windows, seats and mirrors to air conditioning and seat warmers decrease fuel efficiency and cost you more in fuel consumption. They add either weight, increase aerodynamic drag or pull extra power from the engine or through the alternator. Aluminium wheels are one of the few options that actually reduce weight and thereby increase fuel efficiency. Obviously, considering other fuel options such as a hybrid electric car, is another choice for a fuel-efficient car.
Written by: Andrea Susan Glass
Sunday, December 2, 2007
3 Secret Tips Before You Buy A Used Car
I have always purchased my cars used. And every single time, I got a great deal because of a few secrets that is easy to do. These secrets will save you money. And the good news is there is no luck involved. If you follow these steps you are guaranteed to save lots of money, so please pay attention.
BUYING A USED CAR Power Tip #1 - Check Consumer Reports on the safest cars out there. Looks are one thing, but never ignore safety. Here's what you do: Go to a reputable car repair shop and ask if you can bring the vehicle by for a look-over. There is a 99% chance they will say "yes". While you're there, ask what cars they have to repair most often. Also, ask what the inspection includes, how long it takes, and the price. Always get this information in writing - just to be safe. Once the vehicle has been inspected, ask the mechanic for a written report with a cost estimate for all necessary repairs. Be sure the report includes the vehicle's make, model and VIN. If you decide to make an offer to the dealer after approving the inspection, you can use the estimated repair costs to negotiate the price of the vehicle. Do you see how easy it is? Are you going to purchase from an individual? If yes, then here is your next tip.
BUYING A USED CAR Power Tip #2 Remember, private sellers generally are not covered by the Used Car Rule and don't have to use the Buyers Guide. However, you can use the Guide's list of an auto's major systems as a shopping tool. It's simple. You can ask the seller if you can have the vehicle inspected by your mechanic. If he/she says no... beware. No matter how nice the car appears, something fishy is going on. Now, a private sale likely will be on an "as is" basis, unless your purchase agreement with the seller specifically states otherwise. If you have a written contract, the seller has to live up to the contract. The car also may be covered by a manufacturer's warranty or a separately purchased service contract. But that doesn't mean that the warranty and service contract are transferable. Plus, other limits or costs may apply. Before you buy the car, ask if it's still under warranty or service contract, and review that baby carefully. Some states will require vehicle sellers to pass a vehicle inspection before a sale is made. That's not always the case, though. To find out what your state requires, contact your state Attorney General's office or a local consumer protection agency. Hey, it's just a phone call. And it will take less than 5 minutes. Whether you end up buying a used car from a dealer, a co-worker, or a neighbor, follow these tips to learn as much as you can about the car:
BUYING A USED CAR Power Tip #3 Examine the car carefully yourself using an inspection checklist. You can find a checklist in many of the magazine articles, books and Internet sites that deal with buying a used car. Once I bought a used car in August, and never thought to test the rear defroster. Guess what? Come November, I found out it didn't work. If you're shopping in the summer, don't forget to check the heater. And if it's cold as ice outside, still turn that air on full blast and make sure it works! Test drive the car under varied road conditions--on hills, highways, and in stop-and-go traffic. Ask for the car's maintenance record. If the owner doesn't have copies, contact the dealership or repair shop where most of the work was done. They may share their files with you. Talk to the previous owner, especially if the present owner is unfamiliar with the car's history. Have the car inspected by a mechanic you hire. There you go. Follow those three "used car buying" tips and you are guaranteed to save a ton of money buying a used car.
Written by: Charlie E. Hendersen
BUYING A USED CAR Power Tip #1 - Check Consumer Reports on the safest cars out there. Looks are one thing, but never ignore safety. Here's what you do: Go to a reputable car repair shop and ask if you can bring the vehicle by for a look-over. There is a 99% chance they will say "yes". While you're there, ask what cars they have to repair most often. Also, ask what the inspection includes, how long it takes, and the price. Always get this information in writing - just to be safe. Once the vehicle has been inspected, ask the mechanic for a written report with a cost estimate for all necessary repairs. Be sure the report includes the vehicle's make, model and VIN. If you decide to make an offer to the dealer after approving the inspection, you can use the estimated repair costs to negotiate the price of the vehicle. Do you see how easy it is? Are you going to purchase from an individual? If yes, then here is your next tip.
BUYING A USED CAR Power Tip #2 Remember, private sellers generally are not covered by the Used Car Rule and don't have to use the Buyers Guide. However, you can use the Guide's list of an auto's major systems as a shopping tool. It's simple. You can ask the seller if you can have the vehicle inspected by your mechanic. If he/she says no... beware. No matter how nice the car appears, something fishy is going on. Now, a private sale likely will be on an "as is" basis, unless your purchase agreement with the seller specifically states otherwise. If you have a written contract, the seller has to live up to the contract. The car also may be covered by a manufacturer's warranty or a separately purchased service contract. But that doesn't mean that the warranty and service contract are transferable. Plus, other limits or costs may apply. Before you buy the car, ask if it's still under warranty or service contract, and review that baby carefully. Some states will require vehicle sellers to pass a vehicle inspection before a sale is made. That's not always the case, though. To find out what your state requires, contact your state Attorney General's office or a local consumer protection agency. Hey, it's just a phone call. And it will take less than 5 minutes. Whether you end up buying a used car from a dealer, a co-worker, or a neighbor, follow these tips to learn as much as you can about the car:
BUYING A USED CAR Power Tip #3 Examine the car carefully yourself using an inspection checklist. You can find a checklist in many of the magazine articles, books and Internet sites that deal with buying a used car. Once I bought a used car in August, and never thought to test the rear defroster. Guess what? Come November, I found out it didn't work. If you're shopping in the summer, don't forget to check the heater. And if it's cold as ice outside, still turn that air on full blast and make sure it works! Test drive the car under varied road conditions--on hills, highways, and in stop-and-go traffic. Ask for the car's maintenance record. If the owner doesn't have copies, contact the dealership or repair shop where most of the work was done. They may share their files with you. Talk to the previous owner, especially if the present owner is unfamiliar with the car's history. Have the car inspected by a mechanic you hire. There you go. Follow those three "used car buying" tips and you are guaranteed to save a ton of money buying a used car.
Written by: Charlie E. Hendersen
3 Fast Tips on How To Sell Your Car for the Most.
Tip 1 - Pick your time. If you can possibly help it, don't sell your car after Christmas, when no one has any money. Consider holiday periods: will the people be in town or away. Sometimes this can work in your favour because if people are not at work they have more time to look for cars, and they are usually cashed up with nothing to do.On the reverse side, when buyers are busy working, they don't have the time to do a lot of car shopping, which can make negotiating easier.Additionally for this reason, if you get a buyer to come on a week-night, it is unlikely he can compare yours to other cars - which can sometimes work in your favour.
Tip 2 - First Impressions are everything Just like you are going on a date - first impressions are everything. Get all the rubbish and junk out of it. Deodorize it. Wash it, clean it.
Tip 3 - As the good boy scout says. Be prepared. Get your paperwork in order. Find the spare keys. You don't want to be rushing around at the last minute, just when the buyer is ready to go for it. You can't find something. He may just say, he'll get back to you. Believe me, it happens. So get organized before hand and you'll have a much smoother run of it.See my other articles for more tips.
Written by: Graeme Sprigge
Tip 2 - First Impressions are everything Just like you are going on a date - first impressions are everything. Get all the rubbish and junk out of it. Deodorize it. Wash it, clean it.
Tip 3 - As the good boy scout says. Be prepared. Get your paperwork in order. Find the spare keys. You don't want to be rushing around at the last minute, just when the buyer is ready to go for it. You can't find something. He may just say, he'll get back to you. Believe me, it happens. So get organized before hand and you'll have a much smoother run of it.See my other articles for more tips.
Written by: Graeme Sprigge
15 Ways to Lower Your Car Insurance Quote
1. Shop around
The difference in price between various companies can be significant. What one company may consider a high risk factor another company may not view as so important. Insurance companies arrive at a price for your car insurance by adding or discounting money after each answer you give to the questions they ask you. Each company has its own rules as to what they consider should increase or decrease your premium. By shopping around you get a better list of prices to compare.
2. Buy a lower group car
One of the important factors that insurance companies take into account is of course your vehicle. There are thousands of different cars on the road so companies divide them up into groups. Most companies will adopt the ABI (Association of British Insurers) group rating. This splits up vehicles into 20 different groups. Generally speaking the higher the group rating for your vehicle, the higher your premium will be. Some companies may also combine your driving experience with the vehicle group to get a better idea of how high the risk is. This is one of the reasons why young drivers should consider buying a lower group car if they want to lower their insurance cost.
3. Consider Third Party Only cover
A Third Party Only insurance policy is the minimum amount of cover legally required - it is also the cheapest. Generally speaking you should consider opting for this type of policy if your vehicle is of low value. In the unfortunate event of having an accident, any damage to a third party vehicle will be covered but any damage to your vehicle is not. However, if your vehicle is of little value then you may not be too concerned. It may not be worth paying extra for a Fully Comprehensive policy in these circumstances.
4. Maintain a good credit rating
More and more insurance companies are adopting credit scoring techniques as part of the overall calculation of your car insurance premium. By keeping a good credit history you may avoid any additional premium that companies add to your price for having a bad credit score.
5. Buy on the web
Many insurance providers now offer some good discounts for buying the policy over the internet. The theory is that by purchasing your insurance over the web, you are saving the company money by not requiring telesales agent time and incurring free-phone costs. This saving is passed on to you in the form of a discount for buying online. If you have got prices by telephone then check your quote again on their website, you may be surprised at how much cheaper it is.
6. Have a higher voluntary excess
During the quotation process you will be asked how much voluntary excess you want to have. Insurance companies will generally include a compulsory excess amount on the policy but give you the opportunity to increase this if you wish. The more the voluntary excess the lower your premium should be. However, in the event of a claim, you will have to pay a higher amount yourself, up to the total amount of excess on your policy.
7. Reduce your annual mileage
How many miles you do a year is a common question that can affect your car insurance premium. The more miles you do the more your premium is likely to be. Quotation systems and telephone agents will often suggest an amount of miles for you. Try and work out how many miles you will genuinely do. It may be less than the amount suggested. Of course, you should always give an honest answer to this and other questions.
8. Keep a clean driving record
This may be easier said than done. However, by having few or preferably no driving convictions, you can avoid being penalised by increases in your car insurance premium. Getting caught with a speeding fine is often not the only financial penalty you incur. Insurance companies take very seriously all driving convictions and it is usually an important part of their rating process. You can expect an increase in the cost of your insurance if you do get caught with a driving conviction, so it pays to be a safe driver.
9. Keep claim free
This ties in neatly with number 8 above. The biggest factor affecting the cost of your car insurance premium is how many No Claims Bonus Years you have. Full No Claims Bonus is generally considered by most companies to be five years or more, this can give you huge discounts, in some cases up to 75%. By being a safe driver and avoiding potential claims, you can continually benefit by building up your number of claim free years. Every additional No Claims Bonus year you get, the lower your car insurance cost should be. Some companies give you the option of paying a bit more on your premium to protect your No Claims Bonus.
10. Be realistic about the value of your car
Most of us have an inflated view as to what our car is worth. When asked the value of your vehicle during the insurance quotation process, people will often state an amount that is unrealistic and above the real value of the car. People do this as they believe that this is what they will get back from the insurance company in the event of a claim. The reality is that the company will only pay out what the car is worth at the time of the claim and not what you stated for the quote. In fact, by giving a high and unrealistic value, you can increase your car insurance premium as this is often a factor affecting your final price.
11. Remove unnecessary named drivers
Additional drivers on your policy usually mean a higher premium. A lot of people add a number of extra drivers on the policy just in case that person needs to drive the car. However, having all these drivers will push up the cost. By only naming drivers on the policy that will definitely driver the car, you can lower the final cost. If you find that an unnamed driver needs to drive the vehicle then most companies will allow you to temporarily add a new named driver for a small cost.
12. Improve your car security
Theft of and from your vehicle are important considerations when insurance companies calculate your price. Most companies will give you a discount for having better security of your vehicle. An alarm and immobiliser will usually attract a small discount whilst having a tracker device installed may give you a larger reduction. Some companies may insist on having such devices installed on more expensive and desirable cars before they even consider offering you a price.
13. Take an advanced driving test
Although not compulsory, taking an advanced driving test can not only improve your driving skills but also help to lower your car insurance premium. Some companies look favourably on people who have taken the advanced test as it shows commitment to safe driving thus lowering the chance of having a motoring accident.
14. Pay your premium in one go
By paying for your car insurance all in one go, you can avoid paying additional interest charges that would be added on if you opted to pay by instalments. The interest charges can be quite significant, so if your finances allow, you can save a good amount of money by paying for the whole lot up front. In some cases, companies may even give you a small discount for doing this.
15. Get married
Okay so this may seem like a dramatic final way to lower your premium. However, a number of insurance companies offer lower premiums when your named drivers are insured and spouse as opposed to two unmarried drivers. Some companies believe that this shows an element of stability which is a hallmark of safer drivers and give you a discount on this basis.
Written by: Andrew Bowen
The difference in price between various companies can be significant. What one company may consider a high risk factor another company may not view as so important. Insurance companies arrive at a price for your car insurance by adding or discounting money after each answer you give to the questions they ask you. Each company has its own rules as to what they consider should increase or decrease your premium. By shopping around you get a better list of prices to compare.
2. Buy a lower group car
One of the important factors that insurance companies take into account is of course your vehicle. There are thousands of different cars on the road so companies divide them up into groups. Most companies will adopt the ABI (Association of British Insurers) group rating. This splits up vehicles into 20 different groups. Generally speaking the higher the group rating for your vehicle, the higher your premium will be. Some companies may also combine your driving experience with the vehicle group to get a better idea of how high the risk is. This is one of the reasons why young drivers should consider buying a lower group car if they want to lower their insurance cost.
3. Consider Third Party Only cover
A Third Party Only insurance policy is the minimum amount of cover legally required - it is also the cheapest. Generally speaking you should consider opting for this type of policy if your vehicle is of low value. In the unfortunate event of having an accident, any damage to a third party vehicle will be covered but any damage to your vehicle is not. However, if your vehicle is of little value then you may not be too concerned. It may not be worth paying extra for a Fully Comprehensive policy in these circumstances.
4. Maintain a good credit rating
More and more insurance companies are adopting credit scoring techniques as part of the overall calculation of your car insurance premium. By keeping a good credit history you may avoid any additional premium that companies add to your price for having a bad credit score.
5. Buy on the web
Many insurance providers now offer some good discounts for buying the policy over the internet. The theory is that by purchasing your insurance over the web, you are saving the company money by not requiring telesales agent time and incurring free-phone costs. This saving is passed on to you in the form of a discount for buying online. If you have got prices by telephone then check your quote again on their website, you may be surprised at how much cheaper it is.
6. Have a higher voluntary excess
During the quotation process you will be asked how much voluntary excess you want to have. Insurance companies will generally include a compulsory excess amount on the policy but give you the opportunity to increase this if you wish. The more the voluntary excess the lower your premium should be. However, in the event of a claim, you will have to pay a higher amount yourself, up to the total amount of excess on your policy.
7. Reduce your annual mileage
How many miles you do a year is a common question that can affect your car insurance premium. The more miles you do the more your premium is likely to be. Quotation systems and telephone agents will often suggest an amount of miles for you. Try and work out how many miles you will genuinely do. It may be less than the amount suggested. Of course, you should always give an honest answer to this and other questions.
8. Keep a clean driving record
This may be easier said than done. However, by having few or preferably no driving convictions, you can avoid being penalised by increases in your car insurance premium. Getting caught with a speeding fine is often not the only financial penalty you incur. Insurance companies take very seriously all driving convictions and it is usually an important part of their rating process. You can expect an increase in the cost of your insurance if you do get caught with a driving conviction, so it pays to be a safe driver.
9. Keep claim free
This ties in neatly with number 8 above. The biggest factor affecting the cost of your car insurance premium is how many No Claims Bonus Years you have. Full No Claims Bonus is generally considered by most companies to be five years or more, this can give you huge discounts, in some cases up to 75%. By being a safe driver and avoiding potential claims, you can continually benefit by building up your number of claim free years. Every additional No Claims Bonus year you get, the lower your car insurance cost should be. Some companies give you the option of paying a bit more on your premium to protect your No Claims Bonus.
10. Be realistic about the value of your car
Most of us have an inflated view as to what our car is worth. When asked the value of your vehicle during the insurance quotation process, people will often state an amount that is unrealistic and above the real value of the car. People do this as they believe that this is what they will get back from the insurance company in the event of a claim. The reality is that the company will only pay out what the car is worth at the time of the claim and not what you stated for the quote. In fact, by giving a high and unrealistic value, you can increase your car insurance premium as this is often a factor affecting your final price.
11. Remove unnecessary named drivers
Additional drivers on your policy usually mean a higher premium. A lot of people add a number of extra drivers on the policy just in case that person needs to drive the car. However, having all these drivers will push up the cost. By only naming drivers on the policy that will definitely driver the car, you can lower the final cost. If you find that an unnamed driver needs to drive the vehicle then most companies will allow you to temporarily add a new named driver for a small cost.
12. Improve your car security
Theft of and from your vehicle are important considerations when insurance companies calculate your price. Most companies will give you a discount for having better security of your vehicle. An alarm and immobiliser will usually attract a small discount whilst having a tracker device installed may give you a larger reduction. Some companies may insist on having such devices installed on more expensive and desirable cars before they even consider offering you a price.
13. Take an advanced driving test
Although not compulsory, taking an advanced driving test can not only improve your driving skills but also help to lower your car insurance premium. Some companies look favourably on people who have taken the advanced test as it shows commitment to safe driving thus lowering the chance of having a motoring accident.
14. Pay your premium in one go
By paying for your car insurance all in one go, you can avoid paying additional interest charges that would be added on if you opted to pay by instalments. The interest charges can be quite significant, so if your finances allow, you can save a good amount of money by paying for the whole lot up front. In some cases, companies may even give you a small discount for doing this.
15. Get married
Okay so this may seem like a dramatic final way to lower your premium. However, a number of insurance companies offer lower premiums when your named drivers are insured and spouse as opposed to two unmarried drivers. Some companies believe that this shows an element of stability which is a hallmark of safer drivers and give you a discount on this basis.
Written by: Andrew Bowen
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