The Zaroot is Nissan's way of showing how sporty SUV's could look in the future. Combining traditional SUV value, off-road ability and futuristic sporty styling definitely makes an aggressive visual statement.
The concept car is indeed a promise of things to come for Nissan. It also could spawn a unibody, compact SUV for the U.S. market to compete with the Honda CR-V and the Toyota RAV4. The Zaroot definitely makes an aggressive visual statement, with substantial wheel arches, the now-familiar Nissan truck front end styling, and huge gullwing doors that stretch from the A-pillar to the C-pillar. There is no B pillar.
The pentagonal doors define the look of the Zaroot with its front and rear graphic treatment adding a futuristic twist. A bluff nose that ensures minimum front overhangs and double strut grille and arch graphic roof line makes the Zaroot stand out even more.
Dramatic Gullwing doors provide the focal point of the Zaroot design lending a unique shape and making the car a head turner especially when both doors are open. The roof-mounted spotlights have been neatly integrated into the roof bars. The advantage of the gull wing aside from its impressive looks is the ease of access to the cabin they allow, both for passengers and luggage: with the rear seats folded, an awkwardly-shaped load such as a bicycle can be easily loaded into the vehicle with ease. Nissan designed the Gullwing doors by creating a shortened door that is only a little deeper than the side window so it can be easily opened especially in tight parking areas.. The trailing edge of the door finishes in line with the seat cushion, where it meets an extended sill. To maintain the ease of ingress and egress to and from the cabin, the sill automatically drops away underneath the vehicle whenever the door is opened.
Nissan has ensured Zaroot is good to drive on-road, too, with strong performance, excellent road-holding and handling and high levels of comfort.
If you want to maintain the superior performance of your Nissan, then Partstrain is the store for you. Partstrain is the leading supplier of Nissan discount- priced finest quality Nissan Auto Parts. For your performance demands, Partstrain offers electrical parts, exhaust, catalytic converters, grille, head panel, engine parts, spoiler, radiator support, rear body panel, turn signal lights and a whole lot more.
A tremendous line of discount Nissan auto parts guaranteed to be the best of its kind is found at http://www.partstrain.com/ShopByVehicle/NISSAN . The services of its highly trained and friendly staff do not end when parts are delivered at your doorstep, call them and receive valuable technical support.
About the Author
Jenny McLane is a 36 year old native of Iowa and has a knack for research on cars and anything and everything about it. She works full time as a Market Analyst for one of the leading car parts suppliers in the country today.
Written by: Jenny McLane
Monday, December 31, 2007
Sunday, December 16, 2007
Can you really get a free car?
Can you really get a free car?
You may have heard rumours that you can get a free car. Well, this is not exactly true.
As the old adage goes, you can't get something for nothing and this holds true in this case.
You can however ALMOST get a free car.
Why do I say almost?
Because you are going to put your car in a job!
That's right!
Advertising companies are willing to employ your car to display logos, signs and almost any sort of fluffy toy that suits their marketing campaign.
You see, advertising space has become very crowded and advertisers in their wisdom have worked out that people actually pay attention when they are driving.
Otherwise they will crash. Now that's not rocket science is it?
Well, if you know anything about advertising you will realise that the first step of the Ultimate Advertising Mantra is.
ATTENTION.
And so we have the perfect advertising medium.
So yes it's true, they will pay you and in some cases you can actually cover your loan repayments, which means in effect.
You are getting a free car.
For even more fantastic, fresh and dynamite car tips grab a free copy of my ebook and send it to your friends or give it away from your website.
About the Author
Graeme J. Sprigge is the author of 28 Dynamite Money-Making & Money-Saving Cartips - a free ebook which explores every nook of money saving and some money making ideas with cars. You can get it here. http://www.90minutecarsalesman.com/28cartipsdownload.html
Copyright 2005 Graeme Sprigge
Written by: Graeme J. Sprigge
You may have heard rumours that you can get a free car. Well, this is not exactly true.
As the old adage goes, you can't get something for nothing and this holds true in this case.
You can however ALMOST get a free car.
Why do I say almost?
Because you are going to put your car in a job!
That's right!
Advertising companies are willing to employ your car to display logos, signs and almost any sort of fluffy toy that suits their marketing campaign.
You see, advertising space has become very crowded and advertisers in their wisdom have worked out that people actually pay attention when they are driving.
Otherwise they will crash. Now that's not rocket science is it?
Well, if you know anything about advertising you will realise that the first step of the Ultimate Advertising Mantra is.
ATTENTION.
And so we have the perfect advertising medium.
So yes it's true, they will pay you and in some cases you can actually cover your loan repayments, which means in effect.
You are getting a free car.
For even more fantastic, fresh and dynamite car tips grab a free copy of my ebook and send it to your friends or give it away from your website.
About the Author
Graeme J. Sprigge is the author of 28 Dynamite Money-Making & Money-Saving Cartips - a free ebook which explores every nook of money saving and some money making ideas with cars. You can get it here. http://www.90minutecarsalesman.com/28cartipsdownload.html
Copyright 2005 Graeme Sprigge
Written by: Graeme J. Sprigge
Saturday, December 8, 2007
An Overview on How to install Neon under car lights
Are you a bit confused about how to install Neon under car lights on your vehicle? What about the wiring, do you know colors are important when wiring up neon car lights? Well if not we'll show you how to install the under car lights onto your vehicle in the fastest and most easiest way.
First of all, before doing *any* electrical work on your vehicle, always disconnect the battery before starting. Do this by disconnecting the negative battery cable.
Performing projects on cars, like installing Neon under car lights, involves drilling holes into the body of a vehicle, its very important to first check the locations where you're going to mount the under car lights, to be certain you won't pierce or damage any crucial parts such as brake lines, fuel lines and electrical lines, etc.
While the vehicle is raised up on a lift or jack determine the best location for the neon tubes. Make sure they are away from all fuel lines, exhaust systems, areas of extreme heat, moving parts, and areas where a lift jack is used to raise the vehicle.
The easiest way to mount the under car neon lights is to start the screws in the brackets first,(supplied in the kit) then holding the bracket in place, insert and tighten the screws into the holes. Make sure that the wires coming from the *side* neon tubes are facing the front of the vehicle. It's best to tighten the screws just enough to hold the bracket in place, then go back after once you almost finished and individually tighten each one until it seats firmly.
Next you'll need to locate a spot to mount the neon light kit transformer. The preferred location will be somewhere near the battery in the engine compartment and you'll need to drill mounting holes for attaching the transformer.
The power wire on the transformer can be connected directly to the Positive side of the car battery or to any 12V power wire under the dashboard. There will also be an "Earth wire" or Negative ground wire for the neon under car lights that will need to be securely screwed to the chassis of the vehicle, or to any "Earth wire" to complete the power circuit.
The on-off switch should be mounted in a convenient location on the dash and within your reach. Wiring for the switch can be run through a grommet in the firewall, into the engine compartment where it can be connected to the battery. The switch and fuse, that will be included in your neon under car lights kit, should be connected between the transformer and the power supply.
All you need to do now is to plug all the neon tubes into the transformer and complete any additional wiring according to your kit instructions and then you'll be all set to show em off!
Please see our "More-In-depth" and step-by-step picture illustrated instructions on How to install Neon under car lights onto your vehicle.
About the author:
Antonio Gabellone is the Owner/Author of All-Neon-Car-Lights.com - The Site is a great resource aimed at Neon Car Lights from PlasmaGlow with "life-time Warranties". Copyright© All-Neon-Car-Lights.com 2005-2007 - Permission is granted to reprint this article provided the webmaster supplies a *LIVE* link to the authors website.
Written by: Antonio Gabellone
First of all, before doing *any* electrical work on your vehicle, always disconnect the battery before starting. Do this by disconnecting the negative battery cable.
Performing projects on cars, like installing Neon under car lights, involves drilling holes into the body of a vehicle, its very important to first check the locations where you're going to mount the under car lights, to be certain you won't pierce or damage any crucial parts such as brake lines, fuel lines and electrical lines, etc.
While the vehicle is raised up on a lift or jack determine the best location for the neon tubes. Make sure they are away from all fuel lines, exhaust systems, areas of extreme heat, moving parts, and areas where a lift jack is used to raise the vehicle.
The easiest way to mount the under car neon lights is to start the screws in the brackets first,(supplied in the kit) then holding the bracket in place, insert and tighten the screws into the holes. Make sure that the wires coming from the *side* neon tubes are facing the front of the vehicle. It's best to tighten the screws just enough to hold the bracket in place, then go back after once you almost finished and individually tighten each one until it seats firmly.
Next you'll need to locate a spot to mount the neon light kit transformer. The preferred location will be somewhere near the battery in the engine compartment and you'll need to drill mounting holes for attaching the transformer.
The power wire on the transformer can be connected directly to the Positive side of the car battery or to any 12V power wire under the dashboard. There will also be an "Earth wire" or Negative ground wire for the neon under car lights that will need to be securely screwed to the chassis of the vehicle, or to any "Earth wire" to complete the power circuit.
The on-off switch should be mounted in a convenient location on the dash and within your reach. Wiring for the switch can be run through a grommet in the firewall, into the engine compartment where it can be connected to the battery. The switch and fuse, that will be included in your neon under car lights kit, should be connected between the transformer and the power supply.
All you need to do now is to plug all the neon tubes into the transformer and complete any additional wiring according to your kit instructions and then you'll be all set to show em off!
Please see our "More-In-depth" and step-by-step picture illustrated instructions on How to install Neon under car lights onto your vehicle.
About the author:
Antonio Gabellone is the Owner/Author of All-Neon-Car-Lights.com - The Site is a great resource aimed at Neon Car Lights from PlasmaGlow with "life-time Warranties". Copyright© All-Neon-Car-Lights.com 2005-2007 - Permission is granted to reprint this article provided the webmaster supplies a *LIVE* link to the authors website.
Written by: Antonio Gabellone
The Exhausting World of Whole House and Attic Ventilation Fans
A well-designed home has an attic ventilation system that requires no homeowner action whatsoever. Not living in a perfect world, most of us should examine our attic ventilation needs and the deficiencies in our home's design. There are many things that can be done to improve attic ventilation... and many problems that can occur if you ignore it!
Some ventilation solutions require a "powered assist". ATTIC VENTILATION FANS are designed to remove the heated air from the attic only, lowering attic temperatures and thus reducing the temperature of the rooms below. Sometimes they work wonderfully... sometimes not.
The second type of attic fan... the WHOLE HOUSE ATTIC EXHAUST FAN... is designed to draw a large volume of hot air out of your living space, replacing it with cooler outside air.... assuming the outside air is cooler! Though these may assist your attic ventilation strategies, whole house fans are primarily designed to increase your own comfort. Ahhh... a worthwhile goal!!
These articles should help you make some decisions as to whether you need to improve your attic ventilation, how far you should go, and where you could go wrong. Enjoy!
Keep Heat Under Control With Proper Attic Ventilation
Fine, Mr. Attic. Breathe in deeply... breathe out. Now, cough...
Since the energy crisis of the '70's, the climate of our attics has taken on more importance as we have insulated, weather-stripped and sealed our homes into virtual mausoleums. The idea of actually allowing a part of our home to be cold... and to do it intentionally... can give one the chills! It seems a contradiction to all the brainwashing we have received regarding the absolute need for an energy efficient home. But your attic is unlike other areas of your home, performs different functions and, to do its job, must be allowed to... breathe!!
Your attic is your friend... understand it, respect it, appreciate it and care for it!
Think of your attic as a buffer zone. Outside in the "real world" meet Mother Nature in all her glory, with temperature swings and moody weather. Inside your home, you have relatively constant temperature and humidity hopefully matching the health needs of the folks inside. The attic allows for a transition between the wild and the wonderful through the cooperation of your roof, insulation, vapor barriers and ventilation.
The attic roof, of course, keeps rain and melting snow from ruining your Persian carpets.
Insulation in the attic slows down the movement of heat up from your living space, trying its darndest to keep the inside of your home warm or cool regardless of the attic temperature.
Vapor barriers in the attic keep moisture rising from your living space away from the insulation. They are needed because damp insulation loses much of its value. Vapor barriers can take the form of plastic sheets installed on the attic floor (under the insulation), a built-in paper or aluminum foil facing on the insulation itself (always installed towards the living space), or in the form of special vapor barrier paints (See article on insulation for more information).
Sufficient ventilation helps to keep attic temperature and moisture at their optimum levels for the season. In winter, the perfect attic temperature is the outside temperature... cold and dry. In summer, the ideal is to have lots of air movement so the attic is as cool as possible... without adding refrigeration!
Proper attic ventilation has year-round benefits...
The obvious benefit of increased ventilation in the warmer months is a lower attic temperature, which can decrease cooling costs in the home. This is true regardless of how much insulation there is in the attic. In fact, attic insulation can actually cause increases in temperature in the home as the insulation holds the heat long after the sun is gone, continuing to transfer it slowly through the ceilings into your living space. Though we think of attic insulation as a barrier to the movement of heat, the oppressive heat of an underventilated attic can make your insulation a "fair weather" friend.
In the warmer months, a not-so-obvious effect of lower attic temperatures is increased roof shingle life. Though asphalt shingles are designed to take the abuse of the sun for many years, they are subjected to greater temperatures when the roof decking is allowed to overheat... which is just what happens in an underventilated attic.
In the cooler months, moisture is the most serious concern. Even with the use of vapor barriers to keep moisture from entering the attic, there are air leaks around ceiling light fixtures, bathroom exhaust fans, access panels and fold-down attic stairways that allow unwanted moisture into the attic. Just going into the attic to bring down that old Monopoly game can increase the moisture level in the attic a hundred fold.
Moisture condensing on the framing members and the inside of the roof deck can lead to the growth of mold, mildew and rot in the roof deck and framing. And for those of you who use the attic area for storage, watch those roofing nails and any metal reinforcements! Have you ever noticed that items in the attic seem to have evidence of slight water drips, but there doesn't seem to be a roof leak? Glance at the business end of the roof nails sticking through the roof deck. Are they rusty... or is the wood around them stained? If so, you almost definitely have an attic moisture problem. Moisture from the living area is entering the attic and freezing on the nails. When the attic warms slightly, the ice melts and drips onto your stuff. Mystery solved!
As if that wasn't enough, relative warm and cold spots on the inside of the roof deck can lead to the nightmare of ice dams and their associated roof leaks when the roof is snow-covered (see article on ice dams for more information).
Understanding non-mechanical attic venting...
One common type of vent, especially in homes built prior to 1980, is the gable vent, which is a louvered and screened vent located at or near the peak in the sidewall of the attic. Gable vents come in different sizes, materials, and shapes... triangular, rectangular, wood, plastic or metal. They offer a reasonable amount of ventilation in the upper-most areas of the attic but they do not produce uniform temperatures throughout the attic, leading to the formation of "hot spots" of overheated motionless air.
By far the best non-mechanical venting system is the combination of soffit vents and ridge vents. This type of ventilation requires a specific roof design with an overhanging area at the lower edge of the roof called a soffit. Vents are installed into the underside of the soffit overhang to allow air to move into the attic. The graphic shows a continuous soffit vent which runs the entire length of the soffit.
To complement the soffit vents, another vent is installed at the peak of the roof, called a ridge vent. This is a screened replacement for the uppermost shingles bridging the peak of the roof, allowing air to flow in or out of the attic along the entire peak. The system is devilishly simple in function yet effective... warm air in the attic rises and exits through the ridge vents to be replaced by cooler air entering the soffit vents. Because the path of the cool air is along the underside of the roof deck, it provides uniform air movement and the best possible ventilating action.
Living in an imperfectly vented world...
Oh if only the world was perfect... but it's not. And if only all the builders took attic ventilation seriously years ago. Dream on! They didn't. As usual, we all have to make compromises and "make do" with what we have. Here are a few suggestions to help you with some of these imperfect situations...
If your home has gable vents but unvented soffits, the installation of soffit venting will be a great improvement over gable vents alone. Though you might be able to install continuous soffit vents, it is much easier for the homeowner to install circular aluminum vents. Just bore the right size hole and press them into place! They are available in sizes from 2" up to over 16". Just make sure there is no insulation blocking the inside opening to the soffit, or the vents will be useless. By the way, the addition of a ridge vent would make this retrofitting perfect (see below).Vent louver pictured is manufactured by Seiho International.
Installation of a vent or vents in the lower sidewall of the attic can also increase the air flow to a gable or ridge vent. Don't use a gable-type vent in this low location... it's not too aesthetically pleasing. A few circular aluminum vents painted to match the house are much less obvious.
Installation of a ridge vent in a home with gable vents will dramatically increase the ventilation of the attic, though not as much as if soffit vents were installed. However, if your moisture problem is not extreme, it may give you just enough ventilation to avoid more drastic measures, such as a powered ventilator, discussed in the next section.
Unfortunately, installation of soffits onto an existing house is not a small task. If you just simply must have them, I suggest pricing out a new house first!
Do not allow your attic insulation to come in contact with any part of the roof, or to cover your soffits.
If you use your attic for storage, be sure to leave space around your vents for air movement.
Mechanical attic venting...
If you have noticed any of the symptoms of inadequate ventilation as mentioned earlier and cannot increase ventilation through conventional means, you may be a candidate for one of the various mechanical attic ventilators. They all increase ventilation through the use of fans or turbines which forcefully remove air from the attic. As you will see, they work in concert with other vents to lower attic temperatures in the summer and also remove moisture in the winter.
Gable Mounted Ventilators...
Gable mounted ventilators are the simplest type to install, and can really increase the air flow through the attic. They are mounted inside of an existing gable vent, and in many cases require no carpentry at all to install. A typical unit can ventilate over 2000 square feet of attic space. You will need electrical skills, however, since these are powered units.
There is a second type of gable mounted ventilator that is mounted through the wall, with its own self-opening shutter system to prevent the entrance of bees, bats or other undesirables into your attic when not in use. These units require more advanced carpentry skills for installation but the reward is increased ventilation. Unlike the gable vent-mounted units, they do not have to blow through the gable vent's protective screening. As mentioned in the article on whole house exhaust fans, insect screening can decrease the total air flow through a vent by up to 25%!
Roof Mounted Ventilators...
Roof mounted ventilators come in two flavors... powered and unpowered. Unpowered ventilators, also called turbine attic ventilators, rotate with the slightest breeze and cause a powerful updraft in the attic to effectively pump out the heated air. Varying in size from 12" up to 24" in diameter, the largest of these turbines can move as much air (with a little assist from Mother Nature's breath) as the most powerful electric ventilators!
Avoid steel ventilators... as Neil Young once sang "Rust never sleeps!" Instead insist on rust-proof aluminum or plastic ventilators. The SupaVent unit shown at the right, for example, is made from ABS plastic and is virtually indestructible!
Supavent Turbine Ventilator
Graphic courtesy of
Edmonds Industries Australia
Powered roof mounted ventilators are the most effective ventilators available able to ventilate over 2500 square feet of attic floor space. They share the same two advantages of the turbine ventilators... the high mounting position allows them to most effectively suck out the heated air, and you have greater flexibility in choosing the mounting position... especially useful if your attic is "complicated" due to architectural design!
Graphic courtesy
Sun Tunnel Skylights
If your roof faces the right way... south-facing roofs are the best... you might be able to benefit from the energy saving features of a solar powered attic exhaust fan. Though not as powerful as the largest electric ventilators, solar units offer the advantages of zero energy cost during use.
They are the most effective when needed the most since their fans increase in power and speed as the intensity of the sunlight increases. And even if you are "electrically challenged", there's no problem 'cause there's no wiring!
Pictured above is the
Fan-Attic
Solar Ventilator.
For more information visit their website at http://www.fan-attic.com
Whole house exhaust fans...
If you already have a whole house exhaust fan, you already have some of the benefits of attic ventilation fans. Each time you use your exhaust fan the attic air is quickly cooled. Initially there will be "hot spots" since the exhausted air will be directed towards the existing vents, but the sheer volume of the exhausted air will soon cool the entire attic.
Of course, most of us will not use our whole house fans during the day since it would be silly to draw heated air into your home just to cool the attic! If your existing attic ventilation system is doing its job, a whole house exhaust fan will only add to the benefits of a cooler attic in the evenings.
See the article on whole house exhaust fans for more information!
Watch out for unintended consequences!
Murphy's law rears its head in the strangest places... your attic, for instance. Who would think that that beautiful powered ventilator might do absolutely nothing to cool your attic? If you have lots of ventilation already, adding a powered ventilator may be a waste of time and money.
This is especially true if you have a soffit-ridge vent system, the most efficient natural ventilation system. Face it... ventilators are stupid machines! They will draw air from wherever they can with the least effort. This means that a ventilator will draw air from ridge vents, gable vents or soffit vents. Fine. But if the fan draws much of its air from a nearby gable or ridge vent, there is no benefit to anyone except the electric company! So placement of the ventilator is essential... as well as careful consideration of whether or not it is a wise investment in the first place.
If you have installed an unpowered roof turbine vent, you have a year-round ventilation increase (unless the two feet of snow on the roof freezes it solid). Unfortunately, powered systems use heat sensors to control their operation. They only run when the attic reaches a certain temperature... typically ranging from as low as 70 degrees F to as high as 140 degrees F. This is great for the summer, but what about the winter? As you have learned, the moisture that accumulates in a poorly ventilated attic can be as destructive as the summer heat. Unfortunately, a thermostat is not a viable solution for wintertime ventilation. A suggestion... install a timer that will automatically turn on the ventilator for a certain number of hours each day to give you a true four-season ventilation boost!
Safety considerations with powered ventilators...
It is a wise idea to have a master cutoff switch for your attic ventilator in your living space. This allows you do perform maintenance safely as well as being able to stop the air flow if you need to go into the attic. No need to pull cooler house air into the attic, right?
All attic ventilators should be installed with a fusible link, a type of fuse that melts in the presence of high heat, disconnecting the power. It is mounted near the fan in the attic, automatically turning off the fan in the event of fire... a valuable safety feature!
Do-It Yourself installations...
Both powered and unpowered ventilators come with detailed installation instructions, and should be within the abilities of even the novice do-it-yourselfer. Getting electrical power safely to the ventilator (if needed) requires electrical knowledge concerning proper wiring practice and local code requirements.
Some ventilation solutions require a "powered assist". ATTIC VENTILATION FANS are designed to remove the heated air from the attic only, lowering attic temperatures and thus reducing the temperature of the rooms below. Sometimes they work wonderfully... sometimes not.
The second type of attic fan... the WHOLE HOUSE ATTIC EXHAUST FAN... is designed to draw a large volume of hot air out of your living space, replacing it with cooler outside air.... assuming the outside air is cooler! Though these may assist your attic ventilation strategies, whole house fans are primarily designed to increase your own comfort. Ahhh... a worthwhile goal!!
These articles should help you make some decisions as to whether you need to improve your attic ventilation, how far you should go, and where you could go wrong. Enjoy!
Keep Heat Under Control With Proper Attic Ventilation
Fine, Mr. Attic. Breathe in deeply... breathe out. Now, cough...
Since the energy crisis of the '70's, the climate of our attics has taken on more importance as we have insulated, weather-stripped and sealed our homes into virtual mausoleums. The idea of actually allowing a part of our home to be cold... and to do it intentionally... can give one the chills! It seems a contradiction to all the brainwashing we have received regarding the absolute need for an energy efficient home. But your attic is unlike other areas of your home, performs different functions and, to do its job, must be allowed to... breathe!!
Your attic is your friend... understand it, respect it, appreciate it and care for it!
Think of your attic as a buffer zone. Outside in the "real world" meet Mother Nature in all her glory, with temperature swings and moody weather. Inside your home, you have relatively constant temperature and humidity hopefully matching the health needs of the folks inside. The attic allows for a transition between the wild and the wonderful through the cooperation of your roof, insulation, vapor barriers and ventilation.
The attic roof, of course, keeps rain and melting snow from ruining your Persian carpets.
Insulation in the attic slows down the movement of heat up from your living space, trying its darndest to keep the inside of your home warm or cool regardless of the attic temperature.
Vapor barriers in the attic keep moisture rising from your living space away from the insulation. They are needed because damp insulation loses much of its value. Vapor barriers can take the form of plastic sheets installed on the attic floor (under the insulation), a built-in paper or aluminum foil facing on the insulation itself (always installed towards the living space), or in the form of special vapor barrier paints (See article on insulation for more information).
Sufficient ventilation helps to keep attic temperature and moisture at their optimum levels for the season. In winter, the perfect attic temperature is the outside temperature... cold and dry. In summer, the ideal is to have lots of air movement so the attic is as cool as possible... without adding refrigeration!
Proper attic ventilation has year-round benefits...
The obvious benefit of increased ventilation in the warmer months is a lower attic temperature, which can decrease cooling costs in the home. This is true regardless of how much insulation there is in the attic. In fact, attic insulation can actually cause increases in temperature in the home as the insulation holds the heat long after the sun is gone, continuing to transfer it slowly through the ceilings into your living space. Though we think of attic insulation as a barrier to the movement of heat, the oppressive heat of an underventilated attic can make your insulation a "fair weather" friend.
In the warmer months, a not-so-obvious effect of lower attic temperatures is increased roof shingle life. Though asphalt shingles are designed to take the abuse of the sun for many years, they are subjected to greater temperatures when the roof decking is allowed to overheat... which is just what happens in an underventilated attic.
In the cooler months, moisture is the most serious concern. Even with the use of vapor barriers to keep moisture from entering the attic, there are air leaks around ceiling light fixtures, bathroom exhaust fans, access panels and fold-down attic stairways that allow unwanted moisture into the attic. Just going into the attic to bring down that old Monopoly game can increase the moisture level in the attic a hundred fold.
Moisture condensing on the framing members and the inside of the roof deck can lead to the growth of mold, mildew and rot in the roof deck and framing. And for those of you who use the attic area for storage, watch those roofing nails and any metal reinforcements! Have you ever noticed that items in the attic seem to have evidence of slight water drips, but there doesn't seem to be a roof leak? Glance at the business end of the roof nails sticking through the roof deck. Are they rusty... or is the wood around them stained? If so, you almost definitely have an attic moisture problem. Moisture from the living area is entering the attic and freezing on the nails. When the attic warms slightly, the ice melts and drips onto your stuff. Mystery solved!
As if that wasn't enough, relative warm and cold spots on the inside of the roof deck can lead to the nightmare of ice dams and their associated roof leaks when the roof is snow-covered (see article on ice dams for more information).
Understanding non-mechanical attic venting...
One common type of vent, especially in homes built prior to 1980, is the gable vent, which is a louvered and screened vent located at or near the peak in the sidewall of the attic. Gable vents come in different sizes, materials, and shapes... triangular, rectangular, wood, plastic or metal. They offer a reasonable amount of ventilation in the upper-most areas of the attic but they do not produce uniform temperatures throughout the attic, leading to the formation of "hot spots" of overheated motionless air.
By far the best non-mechanical venting system is the combination of soffit vents and ridge vents. This type of ventilation requires a specific roof design with an overhanging area at the lower edge of the roof called a soffit. Vents are installed into the underside of the soffit overhang to allow air to move into the attic. The graphic shows a continuous soffit vent which runs the entire length of the soffit.
To complement the soffit vents, another vent is installed at the peak of the roof, called a ridge vent. This is a screened replacement for the uppermost shingles bridging the peak of the roof, allowing air to flow in or out of the attic along the entire peak. The system is devilishly simple in function yet effective... warm air in the attic rises and exits through the ridge vents to be replaced by cooler air entering the soffit vents. Because the path of the cool air is along the underside of the roof deck, it provides uniform air movement and the best possible ventilating action.
Living in an imperfectly vented world...
Oh if only the world was perfect... but it's not. And if only all the builders took attic ventilation seriously years ago. Dream on! They didn't. As usual, we all have to make compromises and "make do" with what we have. Here are a few suggestions to help you with some of these imperfect situations...
If your home has gable vents but unvented soffits, the installation of soffit venting will be a great improvement over gable vents alone. Though you might be able to install continuous soffit vents, it is much easier for the homeowner to install circular aluminum vents. Just bore the right size hole and press them into place! They are available in sizes from 2" up to over 16". Just make sure there is no insulation blocking the inside opening to the soffit, or the vents will be useless. By the way, the addition of a ridge vent would make this retrofitting perfect (see below).Vent louver pictured is manufactured by Seiho International.
Installation of a vent or vents in the lower sidewall of the attic can also increase the air flow to a gable or ridge vent. Don't use a gable-type vent in this low location... it's not too aesthetically pleasing. A few circular aluminum vents painted to match the house are much less obvious.
Installation of a ridge vent in a home with gable vents will dramatically increase the ventilation of the attic, though not as much as if soffit vents were installed. However, if your moisture problem is not extreme, it may give you just enough ventilation to avoid more drastic measures, such as a powered ventilator, discussed in the next section.
Unfortunately, installation of soffits onto an existing house is not a small task. If you just simply must have them, I suggest pricing out a new house first!
Do not allow your attic insulation to come in contact with any part of the roof, or to cover your soffits.
If you use your attic for storage, be sure to leave space around your vents for air movement.
Mechanical attic venting...
If you have noticed any of the symptoms of inadequate ventilation as mentioned earlier and cannot increase ventilation through conventional means, you may be a candidate for one of the various mechanical attic ventilators. They all increase ventilation through the use of fans or turbines which forcefully remove air from the attic. As you will see, they work in concert with other vents to lower attic temperatures in the summer and also remove moisture in the winter.
Gable Mounted Ventilators...
Gable mounted ventilators are the simplest type to install, and can really increase the air flow through the attic. They are mounted inside of an existing gable vent, and in many cases require no carpentry at all to install. A typical unit can ventilate over 2000 square feet of attic space. You will need electrical skills, however, since these are powered units.
There is a second type of gable mounted ventilator that is mounted through the wall, with its own self-opening shutter system to prevent the entrance of bees, bats or other undesirables into your attic when not in use. These units require more advanced carpentry skills for installation but the reward is increased ventilation. Unlike the gable vent-mounted units, they do not have to blow through the gable vent's protective screening. As mentioned in the article on whole house exhaust fans, insect screening can decrease the total air flow through a vent by up to 25%!
Roof Mounted Ventilators...
Roof mounted ventilators come in two flavors... powered and unpowered. Unpowered ventilators, also called turbine attic ventilators, rotate with the slightest breeze and cause a powerful updraft in the attic to effectively pump out the heated air. Varying in size from 12" up to 24" in diameter, the largest of these turbines can move as much air (with a little assist from Mother Nature's breath) as the most powerful electric ventilators!
Avoid steel ventilators... as Neil Young once sang "Rust never sleeps!" Instead insist on rust-proof aluminum or plastic ventilators. The SupaVent unit shown at the right, for example, is made from ABS plastic and is virtually indestructible!
Supavent Turbine Ventilator
Graphic courtesy of
Edmonds Industries Australia
Powered roof mounted ventilators are the most effective ventilators available able to ventilate over 2500 square feet of attic floor space. They share the same two advantages of the turbine ventilators... the high mounting position allows them to most effectively suck out the heated air, and you have greater flexibility in choosing the mounting position... especially useful if your attic is "complicated" due to architectural design!
Graphic courtesy
Sun Tunnel Skylights
If your roof faces the right way... south-facing roofs are the best... you might be able to benefit from the energy saving features of a solar powered attic exhaust fan. Though not as powerful as the largest electric ventilators, solar units offer the advantages of zero energy cost during use.
They are the most effective when needed the most since their fans increase in power and speed as the intensity of the sunlight increases. And even if you are "electrically challenged", there's no problem 'cause there's no wiring!
Pictured above is the
Fan-Attic
Solar Ventilator.
For more information visit their website at http://www.fan-attic.com
Whole house exhaust fans...
If you already have a whole house exhaust fan, you already have some of the benefits of attic ventilation fans. Each time you use your exhaust fan the attic air is quickly cooled. Initially there will be "hot spots" since the exhausted air will be directed towards the existing vents, but the sheer volume of the exhausted air will soon cool the entire attic.
Of course, most of us will not use our whole house fans during the day since it would be silly to draw heated air into your home just to cool the attic! If your existing attic ventilation system is doing its job, a whole house exhaust fan will only add to the benefits of a cooler attic in the evenings.
See the article on whole house exhaust fans for more information!
Watch out for unintended consequences!
Murphy's law rears its head in the strangest places... your attic, for instance. Who would think that that beautiful powered ventilator might do absolutely nothing to cool your attic? If you have lots of ventilation already, adding a powered ventilator may be a waste of time and money.
This is especially true if you have a soffit-ridge vent system, the most efficient natural ventilation system. Face it... ventilators are stupid machines! They will draw air from wherever they can with the least effort. This means that a ventilator will draw air from ridge vents, gable vents or soffit vents. Fine. But if the fan draws much of its air from a nearby gable or ridge vent, there is no benefit to anyone except the electric company! So placement of the ventilator is essential... as well as careful consideration of whether or not it is a wise investment in the first place.
If you have installed an unpowered roof turbine vent, you have a year-round ventilation increase (unless the two feet of snow on the roof freezes it solid). Unfortunately, powered systems use heat sensors to control their operation. They only run when the attic reaches a certain temperature... typically ranging from as low as 70 degrees F to as high as 140 degrees F. This is great for the summer, but what about the winter? As you have learned, the moisture that accumulates in a poorly ventilated attic can be as destructive as the summer heat. Unfortunately, a thermostat is not a viable solution for wintertime ventilation. A suggestion... install a timer that will automatically turn on the ventilator for a certain number of hours each day to give you a true four-season ventilation boost!
Safety considerations with powered ventilators...
It is a wise idea to have a master cutoff switch for your attic ventilator in your living space. This allows you do perform maintenance safely as well as being able to stop the air flow if you need to go into the attic. No need to pull cooler house air into the attic, right?
All attic ventilators should be installed with a fusible link, a type of fuse that melts in the presence of high heat, disconnecting the power. It is mounted near the fan in the attic, automatically turning off the fan in the event of fire... a valuable safety feature!
Do-It Yourself installations...
Both powered and unpowered ventilators come with detailed installation instructions, and should be within the abilities of even the novice do-it-yourselfer. Getting electrical power safely to the ventilator (if needed) requires electrical knowledge concerning proper wiring practice and local code requirements.
Driveway Sealants - Which products are best for your asphalt driveway?
Sealcoating an asphalt driveway every three years not only will make it look better, it actually will make it last longer. Sealing shields paving from the sun’s ultraviolet rays, which can deteriorate the binder and expose the aggregate. Sealcoating also prevents water and ice from getting into the paving and causing it to crumble.
The sealcoating materials and crack-filling products available to do-it-yourselfers are not as good as those available to the trade. However, few tradespeople use the best products available, so you can often still do the job better yourself if you use the right materials — and you’ll save up to 65 percent of the cost of professional maintenance.
For most of you, choices will be limited to what’s available at your local home center or hardware store. Many larger cities have a distributor of asphalt coating products used by contractors. You may be able to purchase these professional-grade sealers and fillers, but remember that contractors buy in bulk. Most pro-grade sealers come in 55-gallon drums, not the 5-gallon buckets you’ll find at the home center. If you want to get the top-of-the-line sealer, check with your neighbors about buying enough to seal several driveways at the same time.
Coal tar vs. asphalt
Most consumer-grade driveway sealers are water-based emulsions containing water, clay fillers, latex, polymers, additives and either coal tar (a byproduct of baking coal to make coke) or asphalt (a byproduct of petroleum refining). Some so-called “asphalt” emulsions also contain some coal tar.
Although significant improvements have been made in asphalt-based sealers in recent years — the use of polymers and other additives that increase durability and resistance to oil and gas, for example — coal tar products still are most popular. According to the sealer manufacturers, coal tar sealers are more durable and much more resistant to oil or gasoline penetration than asphalt-based sealers because gasoline and oil are both solvents for asphalt but not for coal tar.
Asphalt-based sealcoating products are better for air quality because they do not emit high levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) like the petroleum-based products do. They also smell better and are less of a skin irritant.
Judging quality
Both coal tar and asphalt-based products are available in plain or filled-sealer formulas. Filled sealers contain sand or other solids that fill small cracks and holes.
According to Rick Noon, technical director at SealMaster, the more solids (asphalt, coal tar, polymers, etc.) in the formula, the better the sealer quality and the more expensive it will be. You’ll get what you pay for, and you get more solids in better or best-grade sealers.
Comparing the various additives and solids used by different manufacturers is difficult because the formulas are considered proprietary information. The general rule is that the top-quality sealers will have the greatest amount of solids left on the asphalt after the liquids evaporate and cure.
The best way to determine quality is by the length of the warranty. The best-grade sealers typically have a five to six-year warranty. The better-grade sealers are generally warranted for three to four years. Plain sealers will carry a warranty of one to three years. Each manufacturer has its specific prorated warranty, which is usually clearly displayed on the label.
A fourth category of sealer has been developed within the last five years or so. It’s best described as airport, racetrack or pavement-grade. This grade of sealer has more durable acrylic polymers and lasts longer than other formulas. Some come with a 10-year warranty.
Cost and coverage
Asphalt sealers are more expensive than coal tar sealers, primarily due to safer environmental factors (lower VOCs) and the technology (polymers, etc.) that must be added to an asphalt-based sealer to improve its otherwise poor performance.
Low-end sealers range from $5 to $8 for a 5-gallon pail that covers about 400 sq.ft. These are usually just a thin coal tar or asphalt-based, paint-like coating. Don’t expect them to last more than one season. Unsanded or “plain” sealers (the better grade) with heavier solid content range from $8 to $11; the best-grade filled sealers cost about $12 to $15. Heavy-duty or racetrack-grade sealers sell for around $20 for a 5-gallon bucket.Coverage varies between grades. A 5-gallon bucket of low-end sealer covers around 400 sq.ft. The better and top-grade sealers typically cover 250 to 350 sq.ft., depending on the condition of the driveway.
Sealer manufacturers recommend applying sealer with a wide rubber squeegee for the most uniform coverage. Pictured at left is a combination long-handle broom/squeegee sold at most hardware stores.
Crack filler/sealers
It’s important to fill cracks and seal expansion joints between asphalt and other surfaces, such as concrete aprons or curbs, to keep water out and prevent erosion of the paving base. Filled sealcoating materials will handle cracks up to 1/8 in. wide.
Hot-applied sealers are best for filling cracks from 1/8 to 1/2 in. wide. Pli-Stix driveway crack and joint filler, made by Dalton Industries, is the only DIY hot-applied product. You press the coiled material into place and heat it with a propane torch (preferably with a flame-spreading tip) or a heat gun until it melts into the crack. Pli-Stix comes in a 1/2-in.-diameter, 30-ft. roll. It can be stretched to fit 1/4-in.-wide cracks or doubled up to fill 1-in. cracks. It also has a lifetime warranty.
Most consumer-grade crack sealers are cold-applied asphalt emulsions with varying concentrations of latex and polymers. They are available in pourable jugs for cracks up to 1/8 in. wide, caulking gun cartridges for 1/2-in.-wide cracks, or as trowelable material for wider ones.
If a manufacturer rates its crack fillers using a good-better-best scale, get the best quality product if you want it to hold up as long as the sealcoating itself.
Sealing frequency
Sealer manufacturers and asphalt contractors agree that most asphalt driveways only need to be sealed about every three years. The exception would be in extremely harsh regions, such as the South or desert areas, or when the asphalt turns gray. Graying indicates that the surface is oxidizing and loosing the binder that holds the aggregate in the asphalt.
According to sealer manufacturers and engineers at the Asphalt Institute, most driveways do not need filled sealer until they have begun to develop fine cracks. This generally happens after several years. Let new asphalt cure for about a year before sealing, and then use just a plain sealer.
If you do like to seal every year to keep your driveway looking new, use budget-priced, unsanded or nonfilled sealers. The drawback to sealing every year is that the sealer can build up and will eventually peel, which also leads to it being
tracked indoors. Sealer can permanently stain vinyl flooring even if you remove it promptly. While some brands boast special ingredients to prevent tracking, proper application and curing are key to avoiding problems.
Finally, it’s best to repair cracks and holes in the fall and let them cure over the winter. Then, come spring, hose off the driveway thoroughly and apply single coat of sealer. One thin coat of sealer, regardless of the grade, will give you the best results. Multiple coats do not protect any better and actually will cause problems by cracking and peeling.
Patching and leveling
Cut out potholes and badly damaged areas to the base material and patch them with packaged asphalt mix or, at a somewhat higher cost, special pothole patching material. The specialty material typically is more flexible and easier to use. The patches even work in wet conditions and can be driven on immediately after installation.
The best repair for really "alligatored" paving is removal and patching. But Gator-Patch by Maintenance Inc. and Gator Pave by SealMaster can stabilize and level badly cracked asphalt without removing it. You apply them like a filled sealer using a pole-mounted squeegee.
Wheel depressions from parked vehicles are nuisances because they collect water. To fill them, use a series of 1/4-in.thick coats of patching material that’s intended for repairing alligatored pavement, or choose a preblended patching material recommended for thin-section repairs.
You’ll mix the latter with water and spread it from a feathered edge to up to 1 in. thick in 1/4-in. layers.
by Roy Barnhart
The sealcoating materials and crack-filling products available to do-it-yourselfers are not as good as those available to the trade. However, few tradespeople use the best products available, so you can often still do the job better yourself if you use the right materials — and you’ll save up to 65 percent of the cost of professional maintenance.
For most of you, choices will be limited to what’s available at your local home center or hardware store. Many larger cities have a distributor of asphalt coating products used by contractors. You may be able to purchase these professional-grade sealers and fillers, but remember that contractors buy in bulk. Most pro-grade sealers come in 55-gallon drums, not the 5-gallon buckets you’ll find at the home center. If you want to get the top-of-the-line sealer, check with your neighbors about buying enough to seal several driveways at the same time.
Coal tar vs. asphalt
Most consumer-grade driveway sealers are water-based emulsions containing water, clay fillers, latex, polymers, additives and either coal tar (a byproduct of baking coal to make coke) or asphalt (a byproduct of petroleum refining). Some so-called “asphalt” emulsions also contain some coal tar.
Although significant improvements have been made in asphalt-based sealers in recent years — the use of polymers and other additives that increase durability and resistance to oil and gas, for example — coal tar products still are most popular. According to the sealer manufacturers, coal tar sealers are more durable and much more resistant to oil or gasoline penetration than asphalt-based sealers because gasoline and oil are both solvents for asphalt but not for coal tar.
Asphalt-based sealcoating products are better for air quality because they do not emit high levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) like the petroleum-based products do. They also smell better and are less of a skin irritant.
Judging quality
Both coal tar and asphalt-based products are available in plain or filled-sealer formulas. Filled sealers contain sand or other solids that fill small cracks and holes.
According to Rick Noon, technical director at SealMaster, the more solids (asphalt, coal tar, polymers, etc.) in the formula, the better the sealer quality and the more expensive it will be. You’ll get what you pay for, and you get more solids in better or best-grade sealers.
Comparing the various additives and solids used by different manufacturers is difficult because the formulas are considered proprietary information. The general rule is that the top-quality sealers will have the greatest amount of solids left on the asphalt after the liquids evaporate and cure.
The best way to determine quality is by the length of the warranty. The best-grade sealers typically have a five to six-year warranty. The better-grade sealers are generally warranted for three to four years. Plain sealers will carry a warranty of one to three years. Each manufacturer has its specific prorated warranty, which is usually clearly displayed on the label.
A fourth category of sealer has been developed within the last five years or so. It’s best described as airport, racetrack or pavement-grade. This grade of sealer has more durable acrylic polymers and lasts longer than other formulas. Some come with a 10-year warranty.
Cost and coverage
Asphalt sealers are more expensive than coal tar sealers, primarily due to safer environmental factors (lower VOCs) and the technology (polymers, etc.) that must be added to an asphalt-based sealer to improve its otherwise poor performance.
Low-end sealers range from $5 to $8 for a 5-gallon pail that covers about 400 sq.ft. These are usually just a thin coal tar or asphalt-based, paint-like coating. Don’t expect them to last more than one season. Unsanded or “plain” sealers (the better grade) with heavier solid content range from $8 to $11; the best-grade filled sealers cost about $12 to $15. Heavy-duty or racetrack-grade sealers sell for around $20 for a 5-gallon bucket.Coverage varies between grades. A 5-gallon bucket of low-end sealer covers around 400 sq.ft. The better and top-grade sealers typically cover 250 to 350 sq.ft., depending on the condition of the driveway.
Sealer manufacturers recommend applying sealer with a wide rubber squeegee for the most uniform coverage. Pictured at left is a combination long-handle broom/squeegee sold at most hardware stores.
Crack filler/sealers
It’s important to fill cracks and seal expansion joints between asphalt and other surfaces, such as concrete aprons or curbs, to keep water out and prevent erosion of the paving base. Filled sealcoating materials will handle cracks up to 1/8 in. wide.
Hot-applied sealers are best for filling cracks from 1/8 to 1/2 in. wide. Pli-Stix driveway crack and joint filler, made by Dalton Industries, is the only DIY hot-applied product. You press the coiled material into place and heat it with a propane torch (preferably with a flame-spreading tip) or a heat gun until it melts into the crack. Pli-Stix comes in a 1/2-in.-diameter, 30-ft. roll. It can be stretched to fit 1/4-in.-wide cracks or doubled up to fill 1-in. cracks. It also has a lifetime warranty.
Most consumer-grade crack sealers are cold-applied asphalt emulsions with varying concentrations of latex and polymers. They are available in pourable jugs for cracks up to 1/8 in. wide, caulking gun cartridges for 1/2-in.-wide cracks, or as trowelable material for wider ones.
If a manufacturer rates its crack fillers using a good-better-best scale, get the best quality product if you want it to hold up as long as the sealcoating itself.
Sealing frequency
Sealer manufacturers and asphalt contractors agree that most asphalt driveways only need to be sealed about every three years. The exception would be in extremely harsh regions, such as the South or desert areas, or when the asphalt turns gray. Graying indicates that the surface is oxidizing and loosing the binder that holds the aggregate in the asphalt.
According to sealer manufacturers and engineers at the Asphalt Institute, most driveways do not need filled sealer until they have begun to develop fine cracks. This generally happens after several years. Let new asphalt cure for about a year before sealing, and then use just a plain sealer.
If you do like to seal every year to keep your driveway looking new, use budget-priced, unsanded or nonfilled sealers. The drawback to sealing every year is that the sealer can build up and will eventually peel, which also leads to it being
tracked indoors. Sealer can permanently stain vinyl flooring even if you remove it promptly. While some brands boast special ingredients to prevent tracking, proper application and curing are key to avoiding problems.
Finally, it’s best to repair cracks and holes in the fall and let them cure over the winter. Then, come spring, hose off the driveway thoroughly and apply single coat of sealer. One thin coat of sealer, regardless of the grade, will give you the best results. Multiple coats do not protect any better and actually will cause problems by cracking and peeling.
Patching and leveling
Cut out potholes and badly damaged areas to the base material and patch them with packaged asphalt mix or, at a somewhat higher cost, special pothole patching material. The specialty material typically is more flexible and easier to use. The patches even work in wet conditions and can be driven on immediately after installation.
The best repair for really "alligatored" paving is removal and patching. But Gator-Patch by Maintenance Inc. and Gator Pave by SealMaster can stabilize and level badly cracked asphalt without removing it. You apply them like a filled sealer using a pole-mounted squeegee.
Wheel depressions from parked vehicles are nuisances because they collect water. To fill them, use a series of 1/4-in.thick coats of patching material that’s intended for repairing alligatored pavement, or choose a preblended patching material recommended for thin-section repairs.
You’ll mix the latter with water and spread it from a feathered edge to up to 1 in. thick in 1/4-in. layers.
by Roy Barnhart
Friday, December 7, 2007
Are You In The Market For a Car Loan?
Car loans are a tempting way to purchase a new car. While they provide for easy access to a car, these loans can get quite expensive if you do not know enough about what you are getting into. Simple research will provide you with information that can save you some real expenses. Even if you are getting a used car loan or a car title loan, you need to understand what you are getting into.
Most of the time, when a buyer enters a car dealership, they already have an understanding of what they are looking for in a car and how much they can spend. But, how much research was given to the loan you may be picking up in the process? Choosing this wisely, is key to getting a good deal on a car. To find information, consider looking at different lenders and different dealerships. You do not have to get the loan through the dealership. You may be able to get one, at a lower cost, through your own bank especially if you have developed a good relationship with them.
Being aware of how much the interest rate is like being away of the gas mileage on that new car. You need to ask questions and be prepared with answers. For instance, you may be looking to purchase a used car and therefore would be looking into a used car loan. The car you choose and want to purchase will cost you 5000 paid over the next 5 years. But, what happens 3 years into the picture? The car isn't worth the amount you still owe on it because the interest rate was so high or you didn't make a down payment.
Consider the situation there. You have a loan and a run down car that may or may not have been worth it. Add into this a bad credit used car loan, with even higher interest rates and fees, and you are really hurting.
The car loan you choose should be one that reflects your credit, the car, and your understanding of the loan. Perhaps you can pay an additional amount of money a month, and cut the interest rate down over the course of the loan. Researching your options, good or bad credit, will give you more of an understanding of what's available. Simply check online (or search online) for lenders that can offer you quotes for the type of loan you are looking for. Undoubtedly, you will find many options. You will have companies competing for your business now. Choose wisely, and based on your research.
Written by Mike Yeager
Most of the time, when a buyer enters a car dealership, they already have an understanding of what they are looking for in a car and how much they can spend. But, how much research was given to the loan you may be picking up in the process? Choosing this wisely, is key to getting a good deal on a car. To find information, consider looking at different lenders and different dealerships. You do not have to get the loan through the dealership. You may be able to get one, at a lower cost, through your own bank especially if you have developed a good relationship with them.
Being aware of how much the interest rate is like being away of the gas mileage on that new car. You need to ask questions and be prepared with answers. For instance, you may be looking to purchase a used car and therefore would be looking into a used car loan. The car you choose and want to purchase will cost you 5000 paid over the next 5 years. But, what happens 3 years into the picture? The car isn't worth the amount you still owe on it because the interest rate was so high or you didn't make a down payment.
Consider the situation there. You have a loan and a run down car that may or may not have been worth it. Add into this a bad credit used car loan, with even higher interest rates and fees, and you are really hurting.
The car loan you choose should be one that reflects your credit, the car, and your understanding of the loan. Perhaps you can pay an additional amount of money a month, and cut the interest rate down over the course of the loan. Researching your options, good or bad credit, will give you more of an understanding of what's available. Simply check online (or search online) for lenders that can offer you quotes for the type of loan you are looking for. Undoubtedly, you will find many options. You will have companies competing for your business now. Choose wisely, and based on your research.
Written by Mike Yeager
A Rookies Guide to Car Rentals
Renting a car can be a lot of fun, just plain fun. Car rentals offer the renter the opportunity to drive a car, truck or SUV that they normally would not or could not buy. Renting a car is for a weekend get away, to impress someone or just to have something different to drive for a couple of days are some of the most popular reasons to visit a rental company. However, as fun as it is to rent cars, there are some not so fun things that must happen before you drive it off the lot.
1- Keep in mind that most rental companies will not rent to any driver under the age of 25. If you fall under that magic number, you more than likely will need to get an older relative or friend to sign the actual contract for you.
2- You will of course, need a valid drivers license to rent the car. If you do not have a license, they will not rent to you under any circumstances. Most companies will also require you to reserve your car with the use of a major credit card, however, you can pay in cash if you would prefer.
3- You do not need to have personal auto insurance to rent a car; they will ask you if you would like to purchase their insurance for the duration of the rental contract. If, however, you have your own insurance policy, be sure to call your agent to see if you are covered during your use of a rental car. If your personal auto policy covers you, there is no need to purchase a policy from the rental company.
4- It is wise to call several car rental companies to inquire about prices, car availability and specials. Ask about options such as upgrades, pick up and drop off services, unlimited mileage and weekend versus weekly rental prices. Many companies will also offer special deals to customers who are members of other organizations (i.e. credit unions, warehouse clubs, etc).
5- After you have called around, found the best deal and reserved your choice car; it is time to pick it up. Be sure to have all of your personal paperwork with you, including your auto policy if you will not be buying theirs. Before you sign the contract, read through it and ask any questions you may have.
Written by: John Mancini
1- Keep in mind that most rental companies will not rent to any driver under the age of 25. If you fall under that magic number, you more than likely will need to get an older relative or friend to sign the actual contract for you.
2- You will of course, need a valid drivers license to rent the car. If you do not have a license, they will not rent to you under any circumstances. Most companies will also require you to reserve your car with the use of a major credit card, however, you can pay in cash if you would prefer.
3- You do not need to have personal auto insurance to rent a car; they will ask you if you would like to purchase their insurance for the duration of the rental contract. If, however, you have your own insurance policy, be sure to call your agent to see if you are covered during your use of a rental car. If your personal auto policy covers you, there is no need to purchase a policy from the rental company.
4- It is wise to call several car rental companies to inquire about prices, car availability and specials. Ask about options such as upgrades, pick up and drop off services, unlimited mileage and weekend versus weekly rental prices. Many companies will also offer special deals to customers who are members of other organizations (i.e. credit unions, warehouse clubs, etc).
5- After you have called around, found the best deal and reserved your choice car; it is time to pick it up. Be sure to have all of your personal paperwork with you, including your auto policy if you will not be buying theirs. Before you sign the contract, read through it and ask any questions you may have.
Written by: John Mancini
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